I would mindlessly pull an all-nighter, unable to put the book down until I got to the very last page, once again wholly infatuated with the wizarding world and its subtleties, once again grateful and deeply content for this almost sacred experience.

So it doesn’t come as a surprise that I actively sought out Harry Potter locations in the UK during my trips there. From the Harry Potter film studios in London to the colleges in Oxford, I have seen a lot of places where the franchise was either set in the books or was actually filmed. Regardless, Glenfinnan Viaduct is arguably the most famous Harry Potter filming location you can visit in Scotland.

I spent hours on end doing research on what is now known as the Harry Potter bridge and because I’m happy to share the knowledge with fellow Potterheads, here’s everything I know about riding the iconic Hogwarts Express train in Scotland.

Where to find the Hogwarts Express in Scotland

Glenfinnan Viaduct can be seen multiple times throughout the franchise, but the most notorious scene is when Harry and Ron almost crash the flying Ford Anglia into in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets movie.

The hike from the train station to the viewing point takes about an hour there and back; it’s very well-marked and you absolutely cannot get lost. The hike is uphill for the second half but it was nothing that even I couldn’t manage.

There are a few places from which you can admire the train; the most popular is the small plateau right before the trail heads downhill towards the viaduct itself.

Another option, if you have waterproof hiking shoes, is to walk down towards the river, cross the small wooden bridge, take a left and hike up the mountain on the right-hand side; weather permitting, you’ll be rewarded with shots like these. I initially planned on doing that but didn’t have the proper footwear and the ground was muddy.

Glenfinnan and the Jacobite Train views

What we call the Hogwarts Express is actually the Jacobite Train, which runs the 84-mile stretch separating Fort William from Mallaig on the West Highland Railway Line.

In fact, the journey were a thing long before the films were released. For over 50 years or so, the experience has been marketed as “one of the greatest rail journeys in Britain” and rightfully so if I do say so myself. Indeed the scenery, aside from the Harry Potter-related bits of course, is absolutely stunning.

The list of superlatives is quite impressive. Not only does the train departs near Britain’s highest summit, Ben Nevis, it rides by Britain’s deepest freshwater lake, Loch Morar and arrives at Europe’s deepest seawater lake, Loch Nevis! Train nerds will also appreciate alighting (by request to the guard) at Britain’s most westerly mainland railway station, Arisaig, incidentally where the famed Highland Games takes place each July.

On sunny days passengers can see as far as the Small Isles of Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna and even the southern tip of Skye.

Hogwarts Express travel tips

2025 Harry Potter train fares

Tickets cost £69 for a standard adult and £105 for first class. Note that there are no one-way tickets. The Hogwarts Express is solely a return journey!

Also note that single passengers must travel in standard class.

2025 Harry Potter train schedule

For the 2025 season, the morning service will run seven days a week between Monday 7th April and Friday 24th October departing Fort William at 10:15 am sharp and arriving in Mallaig at 12:26.

There is an additional afternoon service seven days per week during core summer season between Monday 5th May and Friday 26th September that departs Fort William at 12:50 and arrives in Mallaig at 15:06.

Overall, the train passes over Glenfinnan Viaduct four times daily: two times facing west at precisely 10:45 and 1:20, and facing east at 3:30 and 6:20. Outside of the afternoon service schedule in May and October, the train only passes twice daily, at 10:45 and 3:30.

My schedule was a bit extreme, but I have no doubt true Harry Potter fans will agree that it was very much worth it. I got the early regular ScotRail service from Fort William to Glenfinnan, which left me with ample time to complete the hike, set up my equipment, record the train passing over the viaduct at 10:45, cry a little bit, hike down to and visit the Jacobite monument and get back to the train station to grab a bite in the dining car just in time for the next train to Mallaig.

It was a long day, but I regret nothing as I got the two iconic shots I needed.

Harry Potter train photography tips

Should you want proper footage of the train passing over the viaduct from inside the train, you’ll have to get a spot by the opening window at the very back of the carriage. Either on the left-hand side if you’re westbound or on the right-hand side if you’re eastbound.

Most importantly, be prepared to elbow a few people in order to keep it. Most passengers will spend the entire journey comfortably seated in the carriage. They will frantically get up once they realise we are getting closer to the iconic viaduct. Because I needed to get the shots for this article, I stood up at the back of the carriage for the better part of two-hour ride to ensure premium visibility near the open window.

VIDEO: Riding the Harry Potter train in Scotland

The post Riding the Harry Potter Train in Scotland is just as epic as it sounds appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

But, boy, was I nervous about having to act like a “big girl” and take the plunge into those crystal-clear waters that felt like they were freezing my bones off.My husband Alex and I were both itching to go scuba diving, but he ended up taking the plunge solo. Since I’ve got a bit of a history with ear issues and asthma, my doctor has kindly advised me to stick to snorkeling. But hey, it’s not all bad! Alex and I ended up with some pretty unique stories to chat about that night.

We decided to go with Dive.is, which is truly the best option for Silfra scuba diving and snorkeling. They’ve been doing this for almost 20 years, so they know their stuff!

The experience

Whether you’re a scuba diver or a snorkeler, our tour has got you covered! We’ll pick you up right in the heart of Reykjavik, take you to the amazing diving site in Silfra, and make sure you have all the gear you need. And to top it off, we’ll treat you to some delicious cookies and hot chocolate after the tour! Believe it or not, the best part wasn’t the drive to Þingvellir or the dive itself. It was putting on all those layers and the dry suit. I’m not even kidding, it’s the least flattering thing in the world, no matter what your body shape is. Everyone kind of looks like a love child of the Michelin Man and a black bear.

I really enjoyed the fact that we were part of a diverse group of snorkelers and scuba divers. Since divers got to go in the water twice, snorkelers had some free time to explore the area on foot. It looked absolutely stunning in the 6 p.m. light, and it ended up being one of my favorite parts of the day!

Snorkeling in Silfra was a magical experience, and I’d highly recommend it to anyone visiting Iceland, even if you’re not planning on renting a car and exploring beyond Reykjavik. It’s an incredible feeling to be in such cold waters, but the sense of being between two continental plates in one of the world’s most rugged islands is truly unmatched.

Scuba Diving & snorkelling in Silfra

Useful tips for scuba diving and snorkeling in Iceland

• Snorkeling in Silfra is just ISK 16,900 (about $150).
• Most of the tours are available year-round, but I highly suggest going in the summer months to enjoy the amazing daylight hours.
• The water at Silfra is very cold, just a couple of degrees over zero. If you have a tendency to get cold easily, a drysuit won’t shield you from that; it merely keeps you afloat. Bring plenty of layers, especially for your extremities (wool socks and thick gloves are a must). For your face, there’s not much you can do except tough it out. Your skin will adjust, and you’ll be amazed at how well you can handle the cold. Just think of how young and fresh you’ll look with half your face frozen in time!

• If you’re into scuba diving, there are a couple of things to keep in mind. If you’re planning on diving in Silfra, it’s a good idea to get your PADI dry suit certification first. If not, plan enough time to do it in Reykjavik (Dive.is offers courses). Scuba diving in a dry suit is a whole different experience compared to diving in a wetsuit, and it requires some specific skills that could even be life-saving. Just a heads-up, your open water certification won’t necessarily cover this.
• We really want you to have the best experience possible, so we don’t recommend trying scuba diving or snorkeling in Silfra on your own if you’re planning on driving to Þingvellir National Park. And please, please don’t think that booking with a tour company is unnecessary. They’re professionals and they know all about the risks of diving in such cold waters. We really want you to be safe and have the best experience possible, so please don’t underestimate the dangers.
• Book your snorkelling trip to Silfra here, with Dive.is.

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That was over 15 years ago, and I vividly remember the goosebumps on my forearms and my rapidly beating heart as I leafed through the fifth novel of the Hatty Potter series (one that I would read many more times in the following years). The sun had long made its appearance when I finally put the heavy hardback down the next morning, not in the least bit tired of not having slept, but instead exhilarated and already excited about the next book.

Naturally, I beelined for the Harry Potter Studios when I last visited London and I didn’t care how much of a nerd that made me. You can tell by watching the movies how much thought was put into details and how precise J.K. Rowling’s storylines are; you can also tell that they used advanced technology to bring dragons and talking dogs and basilisks to life. I was intrigued by all of that.

Exactly how do you do justice to such a brilliant, intricate saga that would go on and entertain generations to come? See for yourself.

Inside the Harry Potter Studios in London

If you’re a Harry Potter fan, there’s no doubt that you’ve dreamed of visiting the Harry Potter Studios in London. The studios are a great way to experience the magic of the books and films. You can get up close and personal with the sets, costumes and props from the movies at The Making of Harry Potter studio tour.

Being able to see how everything looks in real life and get an up-close look at your favorite characters’ costumes is something most fans will love.

When I visited the studio where they filmed all eight movies, it was like a dream come true. I felt like I was entering another world! The studio has been designed to look exactly like Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry from the movie series. You can see classic Harry Potter sets like:

• Dumbledore’s office
• Hagrid’s hut
• Gryffondor’s dormitory
• The Weasley’s Burrow
• Diagon Alley
• Godric’s Hollow

There are also props from each film including wands for sale at Ollivanders Wand Shop. If you want to get an even closer look at how filming actually works on set then buy yourself some tickets for behind-the-scenes tours.

There is also a café called the Leaky Cauldron which serves traditional British food and drink. They even have Butterbeer ice cream!

Harry Potter Studios in London – know before you go

Although you are free to explore the main studios for as long as you like, you don’t have that much free time in the Great Hall before the staff ushers you into the next room (which is unfortunate, because it’s one of the best parts!). So if you’re adamant on getting good photos of that now legendary room, you’ll have to be quick!

Tickets cost between £37 (about $47 USD) and £45 (about $56 USD) depending on when you go. You need to book online in advance in order to pick a time and date. Don’t be late!The Harry Potter studio tour tickets are available online, and you can find them on the official website. The only exception is if you have an annual pass, which is available only at the studios themselves.

I visited the Harry Potter studios as part of a tour group, but I wouldn’t recommend it. The transfer from central London isn’t an absolute necessity; Watford Junction station really isn’t that far from the studio and there’s a regular shuttle from there that costs just £2.50 return. Moreover, going there with a group means you have to stick to a strict 4-hour visit, which, in hindsight, was much too short. I had to speed through the last hour to make sure I didn’t miss anything! The studio visit is expensive enough as it is, don’t burden yourself with a superfluous shuttle on top of that if you’re on a budget.

More Harry Potter things to do in England and Scotland

• Harry Potter Tour of Warner Bros. Studio in London
• Private Transfer: Central London to Harry Potter Warner Bros Studio in Leavesden
• A Muggle’s Guide to Harry Potter Walking Tour in London
• Harry Potter Walking Tour of Oxford Including Bodleian Library
• JK Rowling’s Edinburgh & the Writing of Harry Potter
• Alnwick Castle as Featured in Harry Potter and Scottish Borders Day Trip from Edinburgh
• GHD Clan tour of Harry Potter in the Highlands

The post Why + how to visit the Harry Potter studios in London appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

Although the drama and its plot twists were certainly entertaining, what I will miss the most is Lady Violet’s witty comebacks. I briefly considered writing a post entirely consisting of her best one-liners but I figure this wouldn’t be of much help to those of you who also want to visit Downton Abbey.

In the spirit of being helpful, I wrote down everything I learned during my Downton-themed day trip in Oxfordshire and Hampshire. Let’s dive in!

This is NOT a sponsored post – I really did go ahead and paid $250 of my own money to have this incredibly geeky Downton day. I REGRET NOTHING.

Bampton

Bampton, Oxfordshire is the lovely and oh-so-typically English hamlet the production used to film the Downton village scenes, including the post office, the hospital, the church, as well as Isobel Crawley’s home.

Many scenes, including some of Downton Abbey’s key events (weddings, funerals, shocking conversations) have been filmed in Bampton.

Highclere Castle

Sure, visiting the Downton village was fun but what I was really in Hampshire for was, of course, the abbey.

Seeing it with my own two eyes just made the series come full circle for me, all of which was complemented by the juicy bits of behind-the-scenes trivia I learned throughout the visit:

• Lesley Nicol (the always clever Mrs Patmore) absolutely, positively cannot cook.
• Hugh Bonneville (Lord Grantham) actually broke one of Richard E. Grant’s (art historian Mr Becker) ribs while fighting over Cora in the fifth series.
• The servants’ quarters and kitchen scenes were not filmed at Highclere Castle but instead in a studio right outside London. That is due to the fact that Highclere’s kitchen has been modernised throughout the centuries; additionally, the ceiling was too low for the crew to install the lights necessary for filming.
• Talk about worlds colliding: Jim Carter, who plays the cantankerous yet lovable Carson, is married to actress Imelda Staunton, who is best known for playing insufferable Dolores Umbridge in Harry Potter.
• Her character Lady Edith might have the worst of luck in life, but Laura Carmichael was working as a medical secretary in a doctor’s office when got the call confirming she had been offered the part.
• Big numbers: 255 cast members have been featured throughout the show’s six seasons, aided by a team of 900 crew members.
• You remember how Downton Abbey was turned into a convalescent home in the second series? That wasn’t just a convenient twist; it was also a nod to Highclere Castle’s history. Indeed, the 5th Countess of Carnarvon really did transform her home into a recovery hospital for soldiers during World War I.

Visiting Downton Abbey: what to expect

I have to admit that despite the abundant fun facts, the visit fell a little short for me. I was quickly made aware this was actually the Earl and Countess Carnarvon’s family home. A stately one, but still, a very much lived-in, cherished home with plenty of family pictures and anachronic modern-day trinkets.

Sidenote: the following photos are admittedly not my best work as photography is prohibited inside the castle; quite frankly I thought this was a ludicrous rule so I went ahead and photographed whatever I could in the most inconspicuous way possible (more on that at the end of the post) – needless to say that Carson would NOT have approved.

The sooner you come to grips with the fact this is not the Universal Studios of all things Downton Abbey, the better your visit will be.

One of the most frequent observations people made during the visit is how much smaller the castle actually is by opposition to how it was portrayed in the series. Wide angle lenses, y’all.

Most of the rooms, including the great hall, are actually fairly regular-sized. And this being England, nothing about the decor was ostentatiously opulent – sure, it was ornate and filled with what I presume to be very valuable antiques but there wasn’t, like, offensive marble statues and gold bars scattered around (is that what rich people do?).

It just screamed “understated old-world English money” to me, which I thought was quite fitting with the classy Crawley family.

As I was listening to the guide telling behind-the-scenes stories about filming Downton Abbey, I realised that a lot of the scenes inside Lady Mary’s bedroom actually depict her getting ready at her coiffeuse.

Was it an attempt to convey that she is vain, or was it simply an excuse to strengthen her relationship with her maid Hannah? Regardless, that now iconic crimson bedroom got a lot of airtime – which I certainly won’t complain about as Lady Mary was one of my favourite characters.

Also worth remembering: the infamous “we must dispose of Mr Pamuk’s body RIGHT NOW” scene from series one!

Can you see how infinitely smaller this room is compared to what it felt like on television?

Mind you, Highclere Castle obviously remains an extraordinary stately home but it just doesn’t do justice to the grandeur and pomposity of Downton Abbey – which I guess is normal since most of what we saw on the screen was masterfully manipulated to look like a house fit for the aristocratic Crawley family.

This visit just really goes to show how ingenious set designers and directors have to be!

Once I wrapped things up indoors, I spent the remaining hour I had left exploring Highclere Castle’s gardens and woodlands.

They’re really quite expansive so I didn’t get the chance to see everything but it certainly felt nice to no longer feel like I was on a secret mission to photograph everything and to breathe the fresh Hampshire air.

How to visit Downton Abbey

There are basically two ways you can get to Downton Abbey on a day trip from London: either on your own means or on a guided trip, and none of them come cheap.

Again, remember that the castle is only open a few days out of the year.

HOW TO: Guided day trip to Downton Abbey

There seems to be several companies offering day trips to Highclere Castle.

I went with this one because I found the itinerary to be the most interesting (some tours also feature the Yew Tree farm and other filming locations) but at this point, it really depends on your personal preferences.

The three stops (Oxford, Bampton, Highclere) were plenty for this day trip; any more would have felt rushed and crammed in, in my opinion.

HOW TO: Independent visit to Downton Abbey

The truth is that an independent trip to Highclere Castle will not be all that low-priced either. Welcome to the wonderful world of English trains…!

To get to Highclere, you will need to take the train to either Newbury or Whitchurch (roughly £20 each way) and then take a taxi (which you should absolutely pre-book, and which will set you back between £15 and £20 each way). This is the simplest and pretty much only way to do it unless you plan on renting a car.

In addition to the transportation costs, you will also need to factor in the £15 entry fee to the castle. You’re looking at £95 day trip total per person.

Visit Downton Abbey: Know Before You Go

Photography is not permitted

One of the things I really wish I’d known before I visited Downton Abbey (I guess I should call it Highclere Castle at this point) is that photography is not permitted.

Rant alert: this is my almighty-Canadian-I-am-a-paying-customer speaking but GOSH if you’re being paid millions of pounds by a major network to have your estate featured on international television, people are going to want to take fucking pictures. Downton Abbey takes place in the 1910s but this is 2019; there is no such thing as travelling and not taking pictures nowadays. So yeah, that was kind of a bummer (but also not really because I’m a sneaky bitch).

Check opening times ahead

As you know by now it is a family-owned, lived-in castle, and, therefore, it is only open to the public a handful of days every year. You WILL need to time your visit right, regardless of whether you’re going independently or with a group.

Tickets sell out quite swiftly – Downton Abbey is indeed quite popular still.

Guided tours to Downton

If you want to visit Downton Abbey with a guided tour, chances are you’ll be departing from Victoria Coach Station (some companies do offer hotel pick-ups; call ahead and confirm with them).

The gate is not clearly announced at the entrance, though: you will need to go all the way to the end of the station (if you think you’ve walked past it, you haven’t, keep going).

Also remember that you will have enough time to grab something to eat in Oxford before you head on to Bampton.

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It seems as though traditional Japanese notions of comfort and chiropractic were a little too primitive for this occidental traveller, who woke up feeling like she’d aged about 94 years overnight.

Now on the final stretch of my time in the otherwise underwhelming Nagano prefecture, I thought to myself that I had surely kept the best part for dessert. I wasn’t wrong.

Where to find snow monkeys in Japan

The rather contentiously-named Hell’s Valley (Jigokudani Yaen-Koen or 地獄谷, a common name for Japanese passes with volcanic activity) turned out to be quite lovely, in fact.

Scattered with steaming hot springs, sulfurous streams, and untouched woodlands, the short hike indeed revitalised my body while my mind grew increasingly restless, wondering “if we were there yet” at every turn, eager to finally meet the legendary snow monkeys in Japan.

And, at last, I did.

Japanese macaques live in matrilineal societies and evolve in large social barrels (yes, that is the world used to describe a group of monkeys — you’re welcome) following strict and complex hierarchical principles, in which specific groups hold great authority over other, lower-ranking groups.

Male macaques are nomadic in nature, leaving their natal family before they are sexually mature and moving on to several barrels throughout their lives. Perhaps as an attempt to climb the dominance hierarchy and eventually hold the coveted alpha position, which only ever changes when the current alpha leaves the group or dies.

On the other hand, female macaques will stay in the same group for their entire lives, both creating and maintaining social relationships through grooming. It’s not uncommon for them to start grooming macaques they are not related to simply to ensure cohesion between the different kinships in the barrel.

Dominant females form an extremely strong bond over the years, sometimes even going as far as raising newborns that are not their own or forming alliances to secure the position of a common dominant male. And while higher-ranking, dominant males can impede consortships of subordinate macaques, ultimately, female macaques decide whether or not mating takes place at all.

Not to say that females run the show, here, but they kind of do.

I couldn’t believe how remarkably human Japanese monkeys (Nihonzaru orニホンザル) looked and acted.

Throughout my visit at Jigokudani, I was completely enthralled by their complex interactions (recent studies have even shown that macaques develop accents) and the oddly familiar shape of their hands — although I’m sure good ol’ Darwin would most definitely not think of it as ‘odd’.

I stayed at the onsen for over an hour; my inclination to indulge my fascination for the animal reign could have very well persuaded me to stay longer if it wasn’t for the train I had to catch back to Tokyo.

Rarely have I been so mesmerised by a tourist attraction; perhaps it was because of their mindbogglingly relatable features, which made it physically difficult for me to move and focus on anything besides their expressive eyes, their willowy fingers, their communicative coos.

These monkeys will forever hold a special place in my heart

Day trips to Jigokudani

• Full-Day Tour of Snow Monkeys, Zenko-ji Temple and Sake in Nagano
• Nagano Private Two Day Tour with Guide, Private Vehicle and Overnight at Ryokan
• 2-Day Nagano To Takayama Tour: Snow Monkeys & Highlights Of Central Japan

Travel tips for seeing monkeys in Japan

Is it ethical?

This is not a zoo. I am firmly against animal exploitation in any form, and this park didn’t feel like a tourist trap whatsoever. As you can see, monkeys are free to wander around as they please and they seem far more curious about than frightened by human presence. There is only one warden on site, and he only intervenes (by shouting keywords) when monkeys jump on visitors or try to steal something from their pockets.

Animal rights are something I hold very dear to my heart, and I didn’t feel like I was encouraging any kind of detrimental industry by visiting Jigokudani.

They might look almost human, but they are wild animals and might perceive your curious gesture as a sign of aggression. Also, don’t EVER feed them.

Do I need a car to get there?

No, you don’t. If you’d rather travel by rail (which I highly recommend you do, as car rentals in Japan are very expensive), get off at either Yudanaka, Nagano or Shibu and take the bus to Kanbayashi Onsen. From there, it’s a 35-minute walk through the bucolic alpine forest.

How much does it cost?

Entry at Jigokudani costs 500 yen (roughly $5).

Where to stay?

I stayed at ryokan Yudanaka Seifuso. If you don’t have a car, the owners will take you to the monkey park’s parking lot.

What do I need to bring?

The park is located two kilometres from the parking lot, so you’ll need to walk a bit to get there. It’s actually a good thing as the scenery is stunning. Make sure you wear closed-off and waterproof shoes, as the trail can get quite muddy.

Is there an alternative?

If you can’t make it all the way to the Nagano prefecture but still want to see monkeys in Japan, there is a similar albeit much less picturesque monkey park in Arashiyama, just outside of Kyoto.

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“Champagne! In victory one deserves it, in defeat one needs it.”
-Napoleon Bonaparte

What Is Champagne And How Is It Made?

Champagne is not merely a sparkling wine; it is the mother of all sparkling wines, which is why it became a “controlled designation of origin” — which means only the wine produced within the 34,000 hectares of the Champagne region can be called Champagne. There are very strict and lengthy requirements regarding the champagne viticulture, which includes the bottling process, the pruning, the pressing, and many more aspects.

Hold on to your hats, I’m about to get quite technical!

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Champagne is an assemblage product and not a single origin — with the notable exception of millésimes, which are outstanding and rather rare harvests. “Regular” champagne a mixture of three different kinds of grapes, and the proportions vary from one producer to another, even from one cru to another.

• Chardonnay, for finesse and delicacy
• Pinot noir, for character and intensity
• Pinot meunier, for fruitness and roundness

Vines are hand-harvested every September, and will yield roughly eight million bottles encompassing 519 different crus, of which only 17 will eventually be granted the admirable grand cru appellation.

Champagne, contrary to wine, requires a double fermentation. Once supplementary yeast and sugar have been added, the product will then age for a minimum of 18 months in order to give flavours enough time to reach their zenith. Meanwhile, the bottle will be turned over several times according to a very strict schedule and method, allowing the lee (deposits of residual yeast that precipitate to the bottom of a bottle during fermentation) to travel all the way back to the neck of the bottle before it is frozen. The freezing process serves two purposes: first, it quickly forces the ice containing the lee out of the bottle through sheer pressure, and second, the speed at which this occurs allows the winemaker to cork the bottle rapidly in order to keep the carbon dioxide, colloquially known as “the bubbles”.

“Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right.”
-Mark Twain

Where Can I Taste Champagne?

G.H. Mumm

G.H. Mumm cellars is located in Reims and remains one of the largest champagne producers in the area. It is also an official sponsor of Formula 1 racing since 2013; indeed, G.H. Mumm provides the champagne bottles for the podium celebrations.

The experience was simply fantastic, from the warm welcome to Sandrine’s (how very French!) knowledgeable and friendly tour of Mumm’s 25 kilometres of maze-like underground galleries, where the champagne is aged and stored in 90% humidity.To my greatest enjoyment, it turns out that champagne cellars are every bit as fascinating as I imagined them to be.

https://www.mumm.com/en

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Mercier

Located in Epernay — the trading capital of Champagne — the Mercier cellars and shop stand proudly on the world-famous Avenue de Champagne which Churchill named “the world’s most drinkable address”, flanked by some of the finest champagne producers and under which inconspicuously run dozens of kilometers of underground galleries.

The quirky thing about this visit is that, instead of exploring the cellars on foot, I was given an audio guide and invited to embark on a small train that zoomed me through the 18 kilometres-long cellars located 30 metres below the mythical Avenue du Champagne. That was certainly an unexpected treat!

These cellars were the first of the kind in the area, thanks to Eugène Mercier’s visionnary plans. He is largely credited for having made champagne the widely distributed yet highly respected libation that it is today.

http://www.champagnemercier.fr/en/

“Come quickly, I am drinking the stars!”
-Dom Perignon, upon first tasting champagne

Champagne Day Trip from Paris: Good To Know

• Should you decide to not visit Champagne with a guided tour, you can book independent visits to many champagne houses in Reims and Epernay (prepare to fork out 20 euros per visit):
  • G.H. Mumm
  • Mercier
  • Veuve-Cliquot
  • Moët et Chandon
  • Champagne Taittinger
  • Champagne Vranken-Pommery
  • Champagne Tribaut
  • Perrier-Jouët

• The Champagne vineyards are at their best in the summer, right before harvest; that’s when they’ll be greenest and fullest. Autumn, winter, and early spring visits will be synonymous with virtually bare vines.

• The Champagne tour with Viator also includes a stop in the historical centre of Reims, and a guided visit of the beautiful and fascinating Notre-Dame-de-Reims Cathedral. This is where Clovis, the first French king, was baptized in AD 496.

• Most visits include a tour of the cellar, an overview of the production process and the items on sale in the shop, as well as a tasting.

• Visit champagne.fr for additional info on the cellars, the region, and organising your own visits.

“There comes a time in every woman’s life when the only thing that helps is a glass of Champagne.”
-Bette Davis

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It’s not simply about engulfing as much cake as possible within a 15-minute timeframe; it’s about finding a cosy space, perhaps even with a friend or a coworker, where you will indulge in Sweden’s love for everything sweet, take the time to appreciate the good things in life, laugh a little, and wash it all down with a cup of coffee that’ll keep you going for the remainder of the workday. That, ladies and gentlemen, is fika. One of the most cherished customs in Sweden. One that tourists are quite fond of, and, understandably, are quite quick to adopt.

Who in their right mind would willfully argue against having baked goods every day?

What’s The Deal With Fika?

Fika is technically a play on the Swedish word for coffee that emerged back when back slang was a thing (kaffi is Swedish for coffee) in the 19th century. The word even went on to become both a verb and a noun, which probably explains its omnipresence in contemporary Swedish society.

The setting is of little importance. You don’t have to be in the best bakery in town, or the hippest café – so long as you take some time to change gears, slow down, and take some time minutes to yourself. And because fika is normally experienced in a very informal setting, it’s a great excuse to break the notorious and proverbial Nordic ice with a Swede and get to know him or her a little better. Fika comes with no strings attached, and no expectations. According to Try Swedish:

Most Swedes would agree that the recipe for the perfect fika includes coffee, a cinnamon bun and a best friend.

For the Swedes, there’s nothing extraordinary about fika. It’s just coffee and cake, yo. It’s part of their daily routine, sometimes even part of their employee contracts. These mo’fos have no idea how lucky they are to 1, have coffee breaks (as a freelancer I am completely estranged to the concept) and 2, live in a country where it’s not only socially acceptable but encouraged to eat cookies on a daily basis.

Can someone sort out my Swedish visa already? #kthnx

Fika And Seven Cookies at Gubbhyllan

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This place deserves a proper shout out. Located inside the famous Skansen open-air museum on Djurgarden, Gubbhyllan serves one of the last remaining “seven cookies fika” in the country. While not meant to be celebrated every day, this cookie ceremony of sorts is mostly used to highlight special occasions like christenings or house parties.

Why seven cookies, specifically?

It all goes back to the 19th century, right after coffee was once more legalised in Sweden. People were excited that they could enjoy their favourite beverage freely again (the fact that coffee was outlawed didn’t stop the Swedes from drinking the stuff quite profusely), and were eager to try new things to go along with it… like cookies. Rumour has it that the number seven comes from the fact that back in the 19th century, women and their small group of baes used to meet up in the afternoon for coffee and funsies (wait, this sounds familiar…), each guest bringing a homemade treat, more often that not cookies. For some reason, they often ended up being seven people for fika, for a grand total of… seven cookies. There you go! Mystery solved.

History aside, I will not be asked twice to eat seven different types of dessert in one sitting. And the ones I had at Gubbhyllan were delicious: potato cake, gluten-free brownies, hallongrottor or raspberry thumb print cookies, kolasnittar and their delicious caramel flavour, kanelbullar because obviously, oatmeal cookies called drömmar as well as deliciously good-looking checkerboard cookies.

Also, the dining room at Gubbhyllan is totes adorable, with fresh flowers on each table and wood everywhere. Definitely book fika there if you have entry tickets to Skansen or if you have a Stockholm Card.

Where To Have Fika In Stockholm

Like I said, the place where you choose to take part in fika matters very little. Hell, you could have it on the train, for all intents and purposes. But if you’re on holiday in Stockholm it might be nice to experience the custom in one of the city’s many beautiful cafés. Visit Stockholm has plenty of suggestions – and here are a few of my favourites.

• Snickarbacken – Snickarbacken 7 in Östermalm
• Fabrique – Lilla Nygatan 12 Gamla Stan
• Drop Coffee – Wollmar Yxkullsgatan 10 in Södermalm
• Gildas Rum – Skånegatan 79 in Södermalm
• Foam – Karlavägen 75 in Östermalm
• Cafe Pascal – Norrtullsgatan 4 in Vasastan

The post Treat Yo’Self To Fika In Stockholm, Or How To Eat Your Weight In Cake appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

But I could not walk out. I am way too proud to chicken out on things like that.

My biking day trip from Amsterdam

The sun is shining brightly as I make my way to the rendezvous point in central Amsterdam. And it’s just as well – I’m about to embark an exciting cycling journey in and around the capital, and the inexperienced cyclist that I am is hoping to have all odds are in her favour. To be completely honest, I am equal parts excited and terrified to ride a bike in what seems to be a rather aggressive and fast-paced bike city. Amsterdam cyclists don’t mess about.

At this point, I’m really just leaving it all to chance and hoping for the best.

I shakily hop on my bright green bike (aptly nicknamed Kermit by the rental shop) and make my way towards the Skinny Bridge along with our little group, well aware that I am an extremely visible tourist among a crowd of experienced cyclists – kind of like the newbie trying to blend in with the cool kids, but failing miserably. My guide for the day, Vinnie, explains that the Skinny Bridge was supposedly built as per the request of two crippled old girlfriends that lived on either side of the Amstel River, but whose poor physical condition did not allow for them to walk to the closest bridge to hang out together.

Fact or fiction? It’s hard to tell, but either way, it’s nice to know more of Amsterdam’s numerous stories.

The second stretch of the trip is vastly different than the first; we are no longer in the city, having substituted the stressful streets of Amsterdam for the peaceful and deserted riverbanks of its outskirts. The stately De Riekermolen windmill suddenly peaks through the dense woodlands on my right – needless to say, I didn’t need to be told to stop twice, as my guide starts to explain the history of these Dutch icons. It’s a very photogenic spot and I’m glad that it’s not on the main tourist track.

Just a few bike spins later, our group arrives at the main destination and I am ready for what has been promised to me: COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF CHEESE.

Jacob, the cheese monger at Rembrandt Hoeve, is utterly hilarious. He refers to every girl in the group as a “happy (insert nationality here) woman”, because we were all smiling and laughing at his jokes. Definitely the merriest Dutch person I’d ever met! The tour is much more interactive that I had imagined; we are encouraged to ask questions (Jacob speaks several languages) and to help ourselves to a second helping of cheese. We learn that there’s an easy way to tell Dutch cheeses apart: those bearing an oval-shaped label are transformed and mass-produced while those with a hexagonal-shaped label are handmade by professional mongers. Jacob takes us to the back of the factory where his clog shop is located.

He beams with pride as he tells us that there are only three official clog makers left in Holland, including himself. Very few people purchase clogs nowadays, neither plain ones for gardening (their conventional use) nor ornate ones for traditional Dutch weddings. Nevertheless, Jacob’s highly efficient carving machine allows him to make clogs in three minutes, as opposed to the several hours he once needed to make everything by hand.

This whole experience could have been a horrific tourist trap; instead, I got to meet one of the Netherlands’ funniest residents, hang out with veals, eat delicious fresh cheese and enjoy the countryside.

After a small picnic on the farm grounds (complete with cheese I had just bought from the farm’s shop), I step on my bike for the last stretch of the tour. Our group leaves the tranquil banks of the Amstel River to ride through the equally scenic wetlands of Amsterdamse Bos on our way back to the bike shop.

Amsterdam cycling tour: a good idea or not?

As you can probably tell by now, I am not the most active person ever. I’ve always been terrible at sports and therefore terrified of anything that involves any kind of physical skill. But this tour is easy peasy. As long as you can ride a bike, there really is nothing to worry about. While Amsterdam as such presents certain challenges, the countryside is relaxed and relatively deserted. Cars are used to sharing the road with cyclists.

• The tour roughly lasts four hours and covers 25 kilometres at a relatively slow pace.
• The Netherlands are the flattest country on the planet; the biggest challenge on this tour was to cross the capital’s many low bridges. That’s how easy the tour is.
• Don’t forget to pack water, sunscreen and a small lunch.

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Anyone who’s ever met me could probably describe me as being talkative. And they would be right — I do love a good chat, and I need a great deal of bad vibes in order to completely shut down. Or incidentally, shut up.

But not on that day.

When I finally set foot on the infamous D-Day beaches in Normandy on that misty summer day, all I could hear were whispers. Flies would have probably stolen the show had there been any nearby. And yet, despite the heavy atmosphere and the almost macabre fascination these types of places convey, I kept moving towards them, in an almost lulled manner. The Operation Overlod, as the Allies called it, was my only focus.

War isn’t something to be commemorated with pride, in my mind. Neither by the axis nor the allies.

I wouldn’t say visiting memorials, cemeteries and other World War II sites relates to noir travel as much as it relates to education. People of all ages need to be reminded of how far a group of people can go to validate their opinions and set things in motion, and how destructive the human nature can be at times. I don’t think anyone can fully grasp the extent of war until they actually stand in the very place where deadly battles happened.

I have very little faith in human nature and I am too cynical to believe we will never declare war again. But sometimes, I like to think that with just a little bit of luck, we might.

Omaha Beach, Colleville-sur-Mer

This is where the Allies had the most difficult landing assault of D-Day, because of 150 feet tall bluffs that overlook the beach, which were, of course, skillfully fortified by the Germans, which took advantage of their position to kill hundreds of soldiers on the wide open beaches. Omaha Beach is held especially dear in the hearts of American because of the intervention of the US 29th Infantry Division soldiers.

American Cemetery, Colleville-sur-Mer

Right next to Omaha Beach itself, the 172.5 acre cemetery contains the graves of 9,387 American soldiers. One of the most iconic and photogenic sites of the D-Day beaches, it features countless rows of perfectly aligned headstones. The beaches can be viewed from the bluffs above, and there is a path down to the beach as well.

The Landing Museum, Arromanches

The museum is dedicated to British ingenuity, and further explores the feat of technology accomplished by the British in building and setting up the artificial harbour for the landing. It is also home to an impressive scale-models of the floating docks, a 75-foot section of the Mulberry floating bridge, an American half-track and a Higgins boat.

La Pointe du Hoc

This site is slightly different than the others by its sheer nature, which consists of rocky headland towering over the beaches, and where bomb and shell craters still remain today. History buffs know that La Pointe du Hoc paints an especially courageous picture, considering how the Americans who climbed up the rock walls and eventually captured the bunkers only to find out the Germans weren’t armed at all.

Juno Beach, Courseulles-sur-Mer

This is commonly referred to as the Canadian beach, because of the intervention of both the 3rd Canadian Infantry Division and the 2nd Canadian Armoured Brigade. It is also where troops faced the strongest resistance save for Omaha Beach, because of sturdy German fortifications, complete with concrete emplacements, pillboxes, fields of barbed wire and mines. Courseulles-sur-Mer town centre is also home to a Sherman Duplex Drive (DD) tank, which was recovered in 1970 from the sea and restored.

Visiting the D-Day Beaches: useful tips

• Most of the sites have a dedicated museum; allow yourself time to visit them, as they provide valuable insight and historical videos on events that led up to D-Day, and how they shaped today’s society.
• I strongly suggest travelling to and within Normandy by car, but those with a tighter schedule should look into the many guided day trips that leave from Paris every day (I heard good things about this one).
• Most of the beaches, museums and sites are free to visit, with a few exceptions.

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An early start at the Bergen train station to what seemingly was the middle of nowhere, and from where I would embark on the most incredible two hours of my entire life, despite the hordes of photo-aggressive Japanese tourists, and the amused looks from the Norwegian crew on board. But nothing could get to me – I was too enamored with my surroundings to care about anything else.

Understandably so, I think.

I barely spoke a word during the cruise, despite meeting fellow Canadians on board I could’ve chatted with all day. The beauty that surrounded me didn’t to be need enhanced by adjectives or superlatives. In fact, it didn’t any words at all. Just a good set of eyes, and in my case, a camera.

And also, good clothes. This is Norway, people – it’s strikingly beautiful, but it WILL freeze you to your bones.

What exactly is a fjord anyway?

Geologically speaking, a fjord is a space left by a glacier who, with time, moved away from a glacial valley. Since the glacier’s depth was often much lower than the sea-level, this sudden change in landscape gave way to sea waters to fill this inland space. The result? A long and narrow inlet, often characterized by steep cliffs and dozens of ramifications. Phew.

Or, in my own words, a fjord is a freakishly beautiful place that you MUST see at least once in your lifetime.

Norway fjords: good to know

• Bring warm, waterproof clothes. Norwegians like to say that “There’s no bad weather, only bad clothing”. And in this climate, they couldn’t be more right.
• To get to the cruise, I took a train from Bergen to Voss, and then a bus to Gudvangen. It sounds complicated, but it’s really straightforward and well-indicated throughout. This round trip takes you to Norway’s two most beautiful fjords, the Geirangerfjord and the Nærøyfjord; both included on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. More info on Fjord Norway.
• Fjord cruises often end in Flam, where I suggest you spend a day, even though there isn’t much to do but marvel at the landscape. It’s worth it.
• Don’t stress about getting a good seat on the boat. People only sit down for the first 5 minutes, and then everybody runs from one side to the other, trying to get the best photo opportunity and thus leaving you ample choice in viewpoints.

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