Angkor Wat Temples offer a timeless odyssey through Cambodia’s rich cultural history. From the captivating sunrise to the guided exploration of intricate bas-reliefs, and the sheer diversity of temple highlights, every moment within this UNESCO World Heritage site is a step back in time. As we navigate through the hallowed grounds, we connect with the spiritual and artistic legacy of the Khmer Empire, leaving us with a profound appreciation for the enduring charm of Angkor Wat.

The benefits of hiring a guide

My knowledgeable guide, Te, skillfully unravels the history and legends of the Khmer Empire from the 12th century. Together, we delve into the subtleties of the Buddhist and Hindu bas-reliefs adorning the many temples that make up this UNESCO World Heritage site. Despite the vastness of the complex, Te’s insights provide a meaningful glimpse into the rich cultural tapestry woven by the Khmer civilization.

Inded, opting for a guided visit of the Angkor temples is a good idea for a multitude of reasons.

1. Historical and cultural insights: Angkor Wat is a complex archaeological site with a rich history. A knowledgeable guide can provide detailed insights into the historical and cultural significance of the temples, helping you appreciate the intricacies of Khmer civilization.
2. Efficient exploration: The Angkor Archaeological Park covers a large area with numerous temples. A guide can help you navigate efficiently, ensuring you don’t miss key attractions and helping you make the most of your visit within the available time.
3. Respectful exploration: Cambodia has a unique cultural and religious background. A guide can provide valuable information on local customs, traditions, and etiquette, helping you navigate the temples respectfully and ensuring a positive interaction with the local communit
4. Access to hidden gems: Guides often know lesser-known but equally fascinating sites that may be missed by independent travelers. This provides you with a more comprehensive understanding of the Angkor complex.
5. Navigating challenges: Angkor Wat attracts a large number of tourists, and during peak seasons, it can get crowded. A guide can help you navigate through crowds, ensuring your safety and security during your visit.
6. Local recommendations: Guides often share local insights, including recommendations for authentic Cambodian cuisine and cultural experiences. This can add a delightful dimension to your visit beyond the temple exploration.
7. Promoting responsible tourism: Guides who are knowledgeable about conservation efforts can help promote responsible tourism practices, ensuring the preservation of this UNESCO World Heritage site for future generations.

Hiring a guide for visiting Angkor Wat is a wise investment that not only enhances your understanding of the historical and cultural aspects but also ensures a more organized, respectful, and enjoyable exploration of this remarkable archaeological wonder.

Temple highlights

Angkor Wat is home to numerous temples, each with its own unique charm and historical significance. While preferences may vary. Navigating through the expansive site, we explore the highlights of Angkor Wat and its neighboring temples.

From the mesmerizing Buddha faces at Bayon to the overgrown greenery at Angkor Thom, each moment is a testament to the grandeur and diversity of Khmer art and spirituality. And while the main temple, Angkor Wat, is the largest religious monument globally, the entire site includes a multitude of other structures.

Bayon

As the velvety sunrise bathes Angkor in a golden glow, a sense of enchantment envelops the ancient temples. At this early hour, only a handful of intrepid explorers and the lively rhesus macaques disturb the serene stillness, allowing for a magical welcome to this awe-inspiring site. In these solitary moments, the sheer magnitude and intricacy of Bayon leave me momentarily speechless—a rarity for someone who usually finds words effortlessly.

Bayon Temple is located within the larger compound of Angkor Thom. Angkor Thom is a massive walled city covering about 9 square kilometers, perfectly square in shape and surrounded by a moat and a high wall, which served as a significant and sprawling capital city during the Khmer Empire. Bayon Temple was one of its central structures.

Bayon was constructed in the late 12th and is renowned for the multitude of serene and smiling stone faces that adorn its towers. There are approximately 216 faces, thought to represent bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara or a combination of King Jayavarman VII, who built the temple, and the Buddhist deity. The central sanctuary of Bayon is dedicated to the Buddha, with towers rising in the shape of a quincunx. Each tower is intricately decorated with bas-reliefs and carvings, which provide a detailed narrative of Khmer life during the 12th and 13th centuries.

And unlike many other temples in the Angkor complex, Bayon is primarily a Buddhist temple. King Jayavarman VII was a Mahayana Buddhist, and this influence is evident in the temple’s design and decorations.

Angkor Wat

At the heart of Angkor Wat are five distinctive towers, symbolizing Mount Meru, the celestial abode of ancient Hindu deities. Adorned with an 800-meter-long series of bas-reliefs portraying Hindu epics and 2,000 unique nymphs, the temple offers profound insights into Khmer mythology. Over time, Buddhist elements, including stupas and Buddha images, were seamlessly incorporated into its design.

This Khmer architectural masterpiece seamlessly combines temple-mountain design, intricate carvings, and symbolic features, including notably steep staircases best navigated while sitting. Encircled by an impressive moat and accessed by a causeway, Angkor Wat exudes grandeur, isolation, and a spiritual ambiance.

As the heart and soul of Cambodia, Angkor Wat stands as the epicenter of Khmer civilization, proudly featured on the country’s flag. The temple’s westward orientation sparks scholarly speculation, suggesting its role as a tomb, reinforced by the anticlockwise flow of the bas-reliefs—an homage to ancient Hindu funeral practices.

Beyond its symbolic significance, Angkor Wat is a magnet for those seeking breathtaking sunrise and sunset views. Its well-preserved state makes it the crown jewel of Angkor, encouraging visitors to dedicate a half-day to unravel its intricacies and marvel at previously unnoticed details. The temple’s immersive experience rewards those willing to explore its depths.

Ta Prohm

What sets Ta Prohm apart is its unique integration with the surrounding jungle—an enchanting quality that distinguishes it from the other monuments of Angkor. Unlike its counterparts, Ta Prohm remains engulfed by nature, evoking the awe and wonder that greeted European explorers as they first stumbled upon the magnificent ruins centuries ago.

It was built in 1186 as a Monastery of the King, dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. It was a lively place to be, to say the least. The upkeep and attendance of the temple alone demanded the efforts of nearly 80,000 individuals, including over 2,700 officials and 615 dancers.

Enormous silk-cotton and strangler fig trees, with their sprawling roots, have now intertwined with the temple’s stone structures over centuries, creating a mesmerizing tableau of nature reclaiming its dominion. The iconic sight of sunlight casting intricate patterns of light and shadow on the weathered stones has made Ta Prohm a favorite among photographers and tourists alike. Its enchanting allure was further amplified when it served as a prominent filming location for the movie “Tomb Raider.” Yet, beyond its cinematic fame, Ta Prohm holds profound cultural and spiritual significance, symbolizing the impermanence of human endeavors and the enduring power of nature.

The optimal moment to experience the enchantment of Ta Prohm unfolds at dawn, allowing you to immerse yourself in the tranquil solitude of this ancient temple.

+ other Angkor Wat temples worth visiting

• Beng Mealea
• Koh Ker and Prasat Thom
• Phnom Bakheng 
• Banteay Kdei
• Banteay Samré
• Preah Palilay

The post The most stunning Angkor Wat temples to visit appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

This is the start of a dream voyage that will take me from the timeless Cambodian countryside to the bustling mayhem that is Phnom Penh following the bends of the legendary Mekong River, peeking at floating villages and Buddhist monasteries along the way and into the Vietnamese delta further south.

Unbeknownst to me at the time, I would leave Indochina under the complete and utter spell of its inhabitants, deeply moved by the unconditional generosity and innate kindness of those I would be lucky enough to cross paths with — and the realization that the primary force of attraction, here, is not something that tourists will find in glossy brochures.

My summary of a transformative 7-day river cruise on the Mekong, from Cambodia to Vietnam.

Tonle Sap River

The gentle hum of the motor barely registers as we glide silently along the Tonle Sap, a freshwater lake intricately connected to the Mekong River. Renowned for its distinctive flow reversal, orchestrated by the annual fluctuations in the Mekong’s water volume and the influence of the Asian Monsoon regime, this waterway unveils the authentic essence of Cambodia.

The seemingly endless, level landscapes are adorned with stilt houses, serving not only as shelters against the monsoon’s wrath or improvised cowsheds but also as symbolic bridges to the divine. Amidst the lush vegetation, water buffalo and slender Brahman cows flourish undisturbed, occasionally interrupted by the spirited shouts of toddlers and teenagers eagerly awaiting our boat. Their energetic calls of “Hello! Hello! Hello!” punctuate the air, possibly the only English words they’ll ever know, accompanied by vigorous waves as we pass by. In stark contrast to children coerced into pestering tourists at temples, these youngsters exude genuine joy in welcoming visitors, their brief interactions leaving a lasting, heartwarming impression.

Angkorban

The brevity of the stop in Angkorban, a small commune nestled deep in the Battambang Province, far from the madding crowds and the urban cacophony, was perhaps one of the most poignant ones in this whole voyage. This is where I visit the local primary and secondary school and meet with irresistible children eager to meet newcomers despite the incalculable cultural gap that separates us.

From the beaming grin of the fishmonger to the little girls gifting me freshly plucked coral-hued flowers, the irony isn’t lost on me – often, it’s those with the least to offer who deliver the most profound surprises.

Cambodia, in its rapid growth and intricate complexities, bears the scars of stark inequalities, predominantly stemming from the brutal genocide led by Pol Pot in 1975. Let’s call a spade a spade. However, amidst this historical darkness, Cambodians emerge as some of the kindest, most amicable individuals I’ve ever encountered, despite the profound wounds they carry. They stand as powerful symbols of resilience and unwavering compassion, leaving an enduring impact on my understanding of humanity.

These are the memories I wish to hold dear – the unlikely encounters, the exploration beyond temples and heritage, and, above all, the profound connection with the resilient and compassionate people of Cambodia.

Phnom Penh

The honking tuk-tuks and the reddish-ochre Mekong river banks leave little doubt as to where the boat is docked. Once dubbed “the pearl of Asia”, Phnom Penh is a definitive assault on the senses after the quietude of the countryside but its Royal Palace, its National Museum, its diverse markets and its expanding café-terrace culture make it an interesting destination, along with its an amalgam of mismatched buildings with a certain je-ne-sais-quoi dating back to the French colonial era.

And while leisurely afternoons spent haggling at any of the dozen markets or sipping coffee while people watching, it would be downright unthinkable to travel to the Cambodian capital and overlook its tragic, not-that-long-ago history. Visiting the tragically yet aptly named Killing Fields and the Tuol Sleng genocide museum is not for the faint of heart but are essential nonetheless; the horrendous acts performed within these walls are simply indescribable and I can barely bring myself to step into the succession of rooms filled with photographs of victims taken before their untimely demise. Not one person exits the gates without a dull look, troubled by the inherent horror of the museum and the sombre realisation that four decades later we are not any safer from such heinous acts.

In memory of the victims, in hope for a brighter future, and for the sake of tolerance, one simply cannot go to Phnom Penh and not acknowledge the genocide performed by the Khmer Rouge regime.

Kampong Chhnang

Comprising a few hundred houses built atop bamboo trees and artisanal fish farms, this village is painted in almost every shade of blue to honour Norodom Sihamoni, the King of Cambodia. This is also where visitors will find a lively yet rather primitive fish market, which, despite its irrefutably fetid smell, is still well worth a look in order to fully understand how people live in the Tonle Sap area.

Visiting Kampong Chhnang was yet another validation of my belief that had I visited the Cambodian countryside 100 years ago, it would’ve looked exactly the same.

Wat Preah Angkoak

The beauty of sailing an intimate ship on this river cruise on the Mekong is that we are at liberty to moor at the smallest, least touristy of landmarks.

Located just a few hours ride from Angkorban, this striking gold temple was a real treat to visit after the crowds of Phnom Penh and worse still, Siem Reap. Here, monkeys and monks mingle peacefully and I find myself in awe of the colourful frescoes inside the pagoda, enthralled by the numerous scenes and also, quietly, ashamed at my lack of knowledge of Buddhist heritage.

Chau Doc

Chau Doc, with its vibrant Muslim community and mosque, stands out as an extraordinary village, boasting an unexpected cultural diversity for its size. Disembarking from the antique wooden barge, I traverse a rickety bamboo bridge that spans a canal adorned with lush floating plants, eventually arriving beside stilt houses nestled along the banks of the River Bassac. From this vantage point, I playfully observe local life, stealing glimpses into the simple yet charming dwellings perched high above the water.

Meandering toward the bustling high street, I chance upon a quaint and aromatic street market, albeit with a caveat. If there were anything remotely resembling a public health code in Vietnam, it appears to be a mere suggestion. Fish await their fate in makeshift basins, with freshness demonstrated by their animated flops, while raw meat sits exposed in wicker baskets under the scorching sun. Despite the chaotic scene and the proximity of passing lorries and buses, such market scenes are the norm in Vietnam, seemingly accepted without question.

Preferring prudence over culinary curiosity – both my stomach and immune system likely to dissent otherwise – I depart the market with a collection of vivid images, marveling at the spontaneity and warmth with which Vietnamese people welcome photographers into their midst.

Sa Dec

Our river cruise along the Mekong led us to Sa Dec, a bustling locale with a population nearing 150,000 inhabitants. Stepping ashore, I immediately sensed the vibrant energy and atmosphere typical of Southeast Asia—a reminder of its heyday as the informal capital of the Mekong Delta in the 19th century.

For European tourists, a highlight was the sino-French house immortalized in Marguerite Duras’ novel and subsequent film, “The Lover,” offering a glimpse into the author’s early life in Indochina. Dating back to 1895, this delightful urban pagoda was once home to the novel’s protagonist, Huynh Thuy Le.

Others, unfamiliar with Duras’ work, found themselves drawn to the immense public market sprawling over several blocks. Here, amid stalls laden with meat, flowers, fruits, vegetables, fish, and rice, the bustling activity felt palpable. It was as if I stood at the very heart of the city, immersed in its vibrant pulse, and doubly excited for our final destination—the Vietnamese capital.

Ho Chi Minh City

Formerly recognized as Saigon, the capital of Ho Chi Minh City takes me completely off guard, despite the plethora of advice I received before my arrival. I believed I was mentally prepared for the chaotic uproar. How naive I was! In Ho Chi Minh City, crossing the street becomes an act of bravery:

With the absence of traffic lights, eight million scooters careen towards their destinations, indifferent to helpless pedestrians. The only viable method to reach the adjacent sidewalk is to identify even the tiniest gap in traffic, step onto the street confidently, and hope for the best.

At this juncture, I’m uncertain whether my perspiration results from the scorching 40-degree weather or genuine fear for my life. Nonetheless, the surge of adrenaline sends me into uncontrollable laughter once I successfully reach the other side, limbs visibly unscathed… until I must repeat the ordeal 100 meters further.

Exploring Saigon entails visits to its historic attractions, spanning from French colonization to the American War, wandering through alleys where time appears frozen, exploring incense-laden temples, and encountering the distinctly European Notre-Dame Cathedral alongside the dissonant Palace of Reunification and, of course, the Cu Chi tunnels.

The array of activities in Ho Chi Minh City could occupy me for days, especially when it comes to savoring its gastronomic offerings—Pho, grilled meat, noodles, spring rolls! Alas, I have a mere 48 hours to make the most of the capital, culminating in rooftop sunset drinks at the upscale Rex Hotel.

Vietnam’s audacity and complex history weave a country rich in contrasts that demand multiple visits to fully grasp its identity. I’ve merely scratched the surface, choosing to view it as an incentive to return rather than a regrettable short trip.

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Here’s everything you need to know to plan your very own adventure on the mighty Mekong.

An object of beauty

Visually striking with its elegant wooden decks and vintage charm, the Tonle ship has been on continuous service on the Mekong since 2003. She was entirely refurbished in 2013 to create space for a library/movie theatre as well as a spa on the lower deck. The main level is where the formal dining room, used for all three meals and the occasional cooking class, is located. It should be said that every single on-board meal was a delight, from the Vietnamese noodle bar to the hearty Cambodian curries and the unmistakably European cheese spread at lunchtime.

The pièce de résistance, however, indisputably is the massive teak and brass sundeck. Stretching from one end of the ship to the other, with its 1920s flair, elegant furniture, and most importantly for some, a WiFi connection, this 360-degree promenade is where most guests spent their free time. One can hardly blame them, though, for the idea of sipping a fruity cocktail while relaxing on a luxurious lounge chair, basking in the sun, enjoying the unobstructed views of Cambodian countryside is an opportunity one can hardly decline.

In terms of accommodation, the Tonle ship has just 28 170-square feet staterooms (18 on the upper deck, 10 on the main deck); despite its relative compact size compared to ocean liners, Pandaw offers the highest passenger-to-deck-space ratio of any cruise ships afloat. Each stateroom features panoramic French windows, ample storage, a stone shower and an AC unit — not an extravagance in these tropical parts, where nighttime temperatures skirt around the mid-20s even in February.

How to plan a cruise on the Mekong

From the mystique of Angkor temples to the mayhem that is Ho Chi Minh City — where a mundane thing like crossing the street is a matter of life and death — the range and variety of excursions aboard this Pandaw cruise was simply mindboggling.

Pandaw’s guides took guests to lively floating markets, which I personally left empty-handed as I didn’t think neither my stomach nor my immune system would have been keen to forgive an affront of the sort, to the Cu Chi tunnels and the tragically aptly-named Killing Fields, as well as to hectic Phnom Penh and just about everywhere worthwhile in between. Over the course of eight days, I rode a tuk-tuk, a wooden barge and even a rickshaw in landscapes that left me speechless and met kind-hearted people whose smile I shall remember forever.

The contrast upon crossing into Vietnam from Cambodia was quite striking. After a seamless maritime border passage — there are very few things dollars can’t fix in these parts anyway — the bucolic scenes of the Cambodian countryside were far behind us, both figuratively and literally, as we entered the chaotic Mekong Delta in Vietnam. Cable ferries, fishing barges, dredging boats and private vessels crisscrossed dangerously just a few feet below, unfazed by the Tonle’s ear-splitting horns — it seemed as though everyone was too busy disputing its portion of Mekong to care.

With the help of knowledgeable guides and comprehensively prepared tours, myself and other guests were able to further acquaint ourselves with the multitude of layers of both Cambodia’s and Vietnam’s history and culture.

Life on board

While cruises are generally notorious for their almost overwhelmingly extravagant programme, this simply isn’t Pandaw’s style. Smaller ships call for more intimate activities — absolutely no casino or overstated productions here — and a slower pace where guests are free to interact however little or however much they like.

And, again, unlike most cruises, mornings didn’t start with an invasive speaker announcement and throngs of famished cruisers but rather with the chirping of local birds and the laughs of children playing in the river; just one of the many benefits of being on a ship small enough to access remote areas of the Mekong River.

A typical day on board the Pandaw Tonle commenced with either a leisurely breakfast or a coffee on the sundeck and was followed by a shore expedition, for which a bottle of water and a wireless headset were kindly provided. Guests were welcomed back on board with a freshly pressed juice and cold towels, just in time for lunch, during which the captain raised anchor to cruise towards the next destination. Afternoons were a mixed bag of hardships, really, between spa treatments, sunbathing sessions, lectures on local culture by the knowledgeable guide and perhaps even another shore expedition. At half past six, guests were kindly requested to head to the sundeck for sunset — not without the promise of a happy hour cocktail — and for a succinct briefing about the following day’s itinerary, where the cruise director was available to answer questions as well as to arrange special requests. Dinner came next. The remainder of the evening could either spent watching a movie in the theatre downstairs or indulging in a digestif on the sundeck.

Luxury dwells in the smallest, most devilish of details and while the ship was quite memorable in its own right, it was the proactive crew that made an instrumental difference. Stewards were constantly eager to help and hurriedly fulfilled each and every guest’s needs without having to be asked twice.

Not many ships can boast having amenities and ambiance so enticing that guests would actually question whether they wanted to leave the boat at all, even for a brief shore expedition. It’s no wonder repeat customers made up 45% of occupants on this cruise.

What you need to know about Mekong river cruises

• Pandaw offers à la carte services and handcrafted luxury on some of Asia’s most legendary waters; as such, these are not party or entertainment cruises but intimate experiences centered around conviviality and cultural richness.

• Cruises include accommodation, excursions, occasional activities and three meals per day. Imported soft drinks and alcohol packages can be purchased on board.

• Rates start at $2400 for a seven-night cruise on the Mekong from Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City.

• A note on safety and security: the heat and humidity of South-East Asia can be a struggle for some and should not be under-estimated. Additionally, the terrain around temples and docks is not always levelled and can cause problems for visitors with limited mobility.

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I’ve only been here for a few days and yet I’ve already come to the realisation that the primary force of attraction, here, is not something that tourists will find in glossy brochures.

Neighbouring Thailand might informally be known as the “country of smiles” but truth be told, the praiseworthy title might as well have been awarded to Cambodia; its inhabitants are some of the most amicable I’ve met despite the profound wounds caused by the sanguinary genocide — call a spade a spade — led by Pol Pot against its own people in 1975 and the modest, if not downright difficult conditions in which the vast majority still live in nowadays. They’ve turned out to be one of the strongest archetypes of resilience and unconditional kindness I’ve come across to this day.

My summary of a transformative 4-day trip in Cambodia.

A worthwhile detour to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat temples

Although the Pandaw river cruise technically starts 250 kilometres south of Siem Reap in Kampong Cham, it would simply be inconceivable to trek all the way to Cambodia and skip its UNESCO World Heritage Angkor temples.

For once, jetlag is my friend and I wake up at the break of dawn to the first rooster crow. It’s just as well: I’ll be one of the first visitors to get to the temples, thus avoiding the masses, the sun’s zenith and its inevitable, overpowering warmth — it’s only 6AM in Siem Reap and we’re well on our way to a balmy 30 degrees. Best to make the most of my morning while it’s still manageably warm.

The velvety sunrise casts a golden light on all of Angkor for a truly magical welcome. At this hour, only early-rising tourists and agitated rhesus macaques rustling leaves on their daily harvest trouble the utter tranquillity and stillness of the temples. For a minute, I feel completely alone within these walls and I am left speechless (a notable rarity) before the sheer size and complexity of the site.

My guide Te skilfully explains the history and legends of the Khmer Empire in the 12^th century as well as the numerous subtleties of the Buddhist and Hindu bas-relief of the many temples we are exploring together. Overall, it was a rather speedy visit, considering the UNESCO site encompasses roughly 280 temples; but after admiring the Buddha faces around Bayon, the overgrown greenery over at Angkor Thom and the marvellous architecture of Angkor Wat, I am simply extenuated by the humid heat and the 12 million steps I walked (rough estimate) and I am, truthfully, looking forward to a poolside break at the Lotus Blanc 5* resort. The night concludes with a delectable Khmer curry served in a banana leaf at Genevieve’s on Sok San Street and a surprising circus inspired by Cambodian history.

Sailing along the Mekong’s curves

There is no doubt that the country’s two major cities are growing at an unprecedented rate. However, it’s not until I make it to the countryside that I can fully grasp the reality of life in Cambodia. It should be noted that this Mekong river cruise in Cambodia also includes a sailing on the Tonle Sap river.

From the hustle of Siem Reap to the small port town of Kampong Cham, where we embarked on the Pandaw II ship.

Here, the curiously flat landscapes are dotted with stilt houses — that are no only used as protection during monsoon and as an improvised cowshed but also to, symbolically, get closer to the gods — in addition to water buffalos and skinny Brahman cows thriving in a luxuriant vegetation. Oh, how fertile and generous these lands are!

But what my fellow cruise mates and I preferred, with a crushing majority, are the toddlers and teenagers impatiently waiting for the boat to navigate past their house while shouting “Hello! Hello! Hello!” at the top of their lungs — possibly the only English words they’ll ever know — and vigorously waving their hands at us.

Contrarily to kids forced to harass tourists by their parents at the temples, these fellas are simply, genuinely happy to have people over however brief the visit. It’s in these parts of Cambodia, far from the madding crowds and the urban cacophony, that I will truly be able to communicate with locals despite the incalculable cultural gap that separates us. From the holey smile of the fishmonger to the little girls who brought me freshly picked coral-hued flowers — the irony is not lost on me that it’s often those who have nothing to give who will surprise you the most.

These encounters are now a truly unforgettable memory for me.

Out of the many stops along this Mekong river cruise in Cambodia, four were particularly noteworthy:

• The absence of crowds at the colourful Wat Preah Angkoak temple
• The silversmith community at Prek Kdam
• The primary school at Angkorban
• The floating village of Kampong Chhnang

Comprising a few hundred houses built atop bamboo trees and artisanal fish farms, this village is painted in almost every shade of blue to honour Norodom Sihamoni, the King of Cambodia. This is also where visitors will find a lively yet rather primitive fish market, which, despite its irrefutably fetid smell, is still well worth a look in order to fully understand how people live in the Tonle Sap area.

Phnom Penh

No doubt here: we’ve definitely left the peaceful countryside behind on the last stop of our river cruise in Cambodia.

Singing birds have been replaced with honking tuk-tuks and the reddish-ochre Mekong riverbanks have made way to an amalgam of mismatched buildings with a certain je-ne-sais-quoi dating back to the French colonial era.  Phnom Penh is truly where Cambodian chaos culminates with no sidewalks, no seat belts, no lanes, no traffic lights, no rules. Mysteriously enough, I have not witnessed any accident in this sojourn although I did suffer from several minor heart attacks as zooming cars cut off the rickshaw I was sitting in by just a few centimetres.

A little too close for comfort, and yet, not one limb casualty to report.

Once dubbed “the pearl of Asia”, Phnom Penh is a definitive assault on the senses after the quietude of the countryside but its Royal Palace, its National Museum, its diverse markets and its expanding café-terrace culture make it an interesting destination, along with its tragic modern history.

Not unlike most Cambodians, the close family of my guide Som was deeply affected by Pol Pot’s merciless regime which resulted in subsequent deaths of several family members, including a few he even had to witness with his own eyes. My heart sinks while listening to his recount. Visiting tragically yet aptly named Killing Fields and the Tuol Sleng genocide museum, both in Phnom Penh, suddenly hits much closer to home and takes on a new perspective. The horrendous acts performed within these walls are simply indescribable and I can barely bring myself to step into the succession of rooms filled with photographs of victims taken before their untimely demise. Not one person exits the gates without a dull look, troubled by the inherent horror of the museum and the sombre realisation that even four decades later we are not any safer from such heinous acts.

Clearly, Phnom Penh isn’t for the faint-hearted. It lacks the enchantment and mystique of the Angkor Temples and it can be overwhelmingly busy at times; on the other hand, it simply must be seen once in a lifetime simply to honour the genocide’s two million victims.

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