Clearly, Morocco can be an intimidating country to explore independently—which is why I was thrilled to join the Best of Morocco tour with Intrepid Travel (editor’s note: the exact tour I was on, Morocco Experience, is no longer available; this one is the most similar one that’S currently available). Here is what my group and I got up to on our 14-day trip.

Casablanca

There was a moment, at the beginning of the trip, where I thought I’d made a huge mistake (yes, the Arrested Development kind of huge mistake). Truth be told, I hated Casablanca; I thought it was nasty, dodgy, and I didn’t like the way people stared at my blonde hair, so much that I daren’t explore on my own despite the fact that I don’t get scared easily. To add fuel to the fire, a bird shat on my head an hour after my arrival and as much as I wanted to love Casablanca, I couldn’t help seeing this as a sign. Fortunately, we stayed just long enough to visit the world’s seventh largest mosque, and then we continued our journey up north.

Unsurprisingly, I wouldn’t recommend visiting Casablanca unless you’ve absolutely got to. Given the opportunity, I’d give it a happy miss!

Chefchaouen

It wasn’t until we got to Chefchaouen that I really got excited. The small, mountainous village far made up for Morocco’s dicey metropolis—in fact, entering Chefchaouen is like walking into a dream.

Wherever you’ve been in your travels, I can pretty much guarantee you’ve never seen anything like this before. An entire Medina—the core centre of any North African city—awash in every single hue of blue known to mankind. Turquoise, aqua, cerulean, navy, you name it. Why bother with a monochrome world when you can live in technicolour?

Definitely one of my favourite places in the world. Even four years after my trip!

Volubilis

You can imagine my reaction when I read that name out loud the first time. It doesn’t sound very… Moroccan, to say the least. Well, Christ on a Cracker, little did I know that Northern Morocco is home to some one of the finest Roman ruins in the world. No kidding.

Volubilis is situated on top of some of the most fertile land in Morocco and was famous throughout the Empire for its olive-growing business, grains, and wild animals that were sent to Rome for gladiatorial spectacles. Such high-quality and sought-after items made Volubilis one of the wealthiest cities on the Appian Way.

Fes

A lot of people warned me against Fes, despite it being one of the cities I was most looking forward to on this Morocco itinerary. They said it was overrated and commercially-driven, in addition to being a hellhole for tourists. I quickly understood why: in just 24 hours I had my crossbody bag grabbed at more than once, and I was chased down the maze-like streets of the medina by some man who just wouldn’t accept me not buying his leather wallet. But the thing is, I hated Casablanca so, so much, that anything after that terrible city felt like pure bliss to me.In all honesty, I kind of enjoyed Fes, in spite of everything. It wasn’t nearly as bad as people made it out to be, and you should absolutely not skip the city on your first visit to Morocco.

In all honesty, I kind of enjoyed Fes, in spite of everything. It wasn’t nearly as bad as people made it out to be, and you should absolutely not skip the city on your first visit to Morocco.

Merzouga

This stretch of the trip was characterised by plentiful kasbahs, orange-coloured sand dunes, and lush palmeries—the wild Morocco I had imagined. The charming Saharan village of Merzouga is surrounded by the emblematic Erg Chebbi sand dunes, where my group and I had the chance to embark on a camel ride and watch the sunset from atop the tranquil dunes. A wholly magical experience.

On a site note, it should be noted that camel riding is absolutely terrifying if you’re afraid of heights; unlike horses, which are already fully upright by the time you mount, camels are crouched to the ground supposedly to facilitate said mounting. IT’S A LIE. Camels are freakin’ tall, people, and rarely have I shrieked so loudly as I did when the camel stood up and almost toppled me off in the process. Be prepared!

The Atlas mountains / Dades Valley

Who knew Morocco had such fabulous mountains? I certainly didn’t. The grand Atlas range is awash with sculpted limestone stacks and mud-brick villages perched on treacherous hillsides. Not all tours include hiking excursions but if there was ONE place where you should go on a hike in Morocco, this is it. The scenery is absolutely stunning.

Marrakesh

At last, a Moroccan city I didn’t hate! What a perfect place to conclude this epic adventure across the country! At this point in the trip, though, I was all tajined-out, hungry for the culinary treasures hidden in Marrakesh; this is when I was introduced to the multiple layers of this city, which I immediately became enthralled with. From the bustling Jemaa el Fna square to the numerous riads and the chic Bahia Palace and Jardins de Majorelle, my group and I were kept busy throughout our stay and it wasn’t without a hint of sadness that I made my way to the airport on the 14th day.

Other interesting stops on your Morocco itinerary

Basically a few of the places we went to but that, for some reason, I don’t have photos for! Still very much worth a stop, though.

• Ouarzazate
• Rabat
• Meknes
• Moulay Idriss
• Ait Benhaddou

Morocco travel tips

Solo female travel in Morocco

I wouldn’t advise wandering in medinas on your own, especially as a female. This maze-like network of alleys is extremely confusing, even for someone like me with an impeccable sense of space and orientation. Keep a few friends close by, and don’t wander off on your own.

On being a female in Morocco: to be honest, it does require a few adjustments. I’m well aware that Morocco is one of the most progressive Muslim countries in the world and that women are comparatively fairly well treated. However, I couldn’t help but notice that women are almost absent from public places, especially as you drive further into the countryside. I was talked down on several occasions and mansplained more times than I could count. For some reason, it’s the condescending attitude that really got to me; I didn’t mind the dress code at all, but the condescending stares took a while to get used to.

Haggling in Morocco

Although there are great bazaars everywhere in Morocco, the cheapest prices are always, always in Marrakesh. If you don’t mind a bit of haggling or if you’re on a budget, wait until to get to the metropolis to purchase leather goods, tea cups, and other typical Moroccan souvenirs. Never, ever commit to the initial price.

The pressure to spend money will be strong throughout the trip, most especially if you travel with a tour company where guides are often unapologetic about taking visitors to their friend’s or family’s shops (and probably get a hefty finder’s fee in the process) Don’t let yourself be guilt into buying anything from them unless you truly want to.

Food in Morocco

The further you are from Casablanca and Marrakech, the more limited the culinary offer will be. Expect to alternate between couscous and tajines for the better part of the trip—to be fair, though, these are going to be the absolute best couscous and tajines you’ll ever have.

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For me, that was Casablanca.

Casablanca left me largely unimpressed and even quite wary – nothing went my way, from the plane ride to the hotel check-in, and everything in between. My travel friends and I even had to eat at the forbidden Golden Arch because it’s the only place we didn’t feel judged or intensely observed. All I know is that I felt threatened, unsafe, unsure of what the attractions were and quite disappointed by the ugly commercial buildings scattered around the city.

And also, within minutes of my first exploratory walk around the hotel, a bird pooped on me.

I think that was a warning sign. Go away you evil blond creature!

Thank heavens, Casablanca was just a quick halt on my Moroccan Adventure and it wasn’t long before our guide took us to the north of the country. But not before he took us through a guided visit of the city’s only landmark (Rick’s Café doesn’t count, as it was solely built to fool ignorant tourists), the grandiose Hassan II Mosque.

The Hassan II Mosque – A Bit of History

It all started in the mid-1980s when the King of Morocco, Hassan II, acknowledged the important lack of architectural and historical landmarks in Casablanca. The city had covered herself in apartment buildings, offices and headquarters, but had very little cultural life, or anything to offer to a rapidly growing tourism flow.

“I wish Casablanca to be endowed with a large, fine building of which it can be proud until the end of time … I want to build this mosque on the water, because God’s throne is on the water. Therefore, the faithful who go there to pray, to praise the creator on firm soil, can contemplate God’s sky and ocean.” – King Hassan II

The Hassan II Mosque was indeed built on a promontory over the Atlantic Ocean, the seabed being visible from the glass floor in the great hall. The construction, however, wasn’t free of controversy:  much of the $750 million needed to build the Mosque was financed directly from Moroccans themselves. Every single family was obligated to pay a set minimum amount, in exchange for a certificate of donation.

The Mosque, at completion in 1993, became Morocco’s largest, and the 7th largest in the whole world. Its minaret, at 210 metres high, is the highest in the world. The entire Mosque’s complex covers over 22 acres of land: the main hall can welcome around 25,000 worshipers while over 80,000 people can gather on the outside grounds. Interestingly enough, only the stained glass and chandeliers were imported from Italy. All the other materials, like cedar, marble and granite, were brought from different regions of the country.

I may hate Casablanca with all my heart, but I will gladly go back again if only to step into this spectacular building.

The guided tour was fascinating, and very informative for Islamic neophytes. The traditions related to prayers and the Islamic culture were very well explained and set the tone for the rest of my time in Morocco.

The Hassan II Mosque – In Photos

The Hassan II Mosque – Good to Know

• Guided tours are possible from Saturday to Thursday, at 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00 or 14:00, or daily at 14:30 in the summer.
• Guided tours cost 120 dirhams (around $12).
• Visitors need to respect a strict dress code: no shoes, covered knees and shoulders.

Have you visited the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca? Was it also the highlight of your trip there? Is it one of your favourite religious buildings around the world?

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But the thing is, I hated Casablanca so, so much, that anything after that terrible city felt like pure bliss to me. And in all honesty, I kind of enjoyed Fes, in spite of everything. It wasn’t nearly as bad as people made it out to be, and you should absolutely not skip the city on your first visit to Morocco.

The pottery factories

Fes is often regarded as the pottery capital of Morocco, with reason – there are several factories scattered around the medina, each with its own specialty. Some sell fountains, others tilework, others only have pottery, and others, I suspect the touristy ones, have a little bit of everything.

Regardless, watching the artisans live at work is engrossing, more so knowing that this knowledge has been passed from generation to generation for centuries. No two designs are ever the same because the artisans don’t work with templates – each piece is completely unique.

Naturally, Morocco being what it is, you can also buy pretty much anything that is remotely related to pottery in the gigantic stores. But don’t hesitate to haggle hard! The prices in the factories are a gazillion time more expensive than in the medina, so make sure you get the price you had in mind before you commit to buy anything.

Call to prayer at Palais Jamaï

This is one of the most spiritual things I have ever done – and trust me when I say that I am NOT a spiritual or religious person.

Islam fascinates me in more ways than one, and the adhan – call to prayer – is perhaps what I find the most intriguing. The sheer dedication, the non-negotiable “time-out” from real life, every day at sunset, when the melody softly hums from seemingly everywhere around you until a loud Allahu Akbar blares from the nearest minaret.

The best place to fully enjoy this magical moment? The Palais Sofitel Jamaï, on the northern edge of the medina. The terrace overlooks the entire area of Fes El-Bali, and from there you can hear the thunderous call to prayer coming in from every direction. Even though you can’t actually see the people below due to the very high building density, you can very well imagine the frantic anthill below, with people on their way to their mosque. Absolutely magical.

Al-Attarine Madrasa

Whatever you do in Fes, do not even think of skipping this attraction!

The Al-Attarine Madrasa is in the very heart of the medina, right next to the famous al-Karaouine University. The Madrasa was founded all the way back in 1323 by Sultan Uthman II Abu Said and served as a scientific school. While our guide only led us to the main courtyard, the entire building is composed of 30 rooms, all more decadently styled than the other. This is a pure jewel in terms of Islamic architecture, and the courtyard alone had my undivided attention for a solid hour. And I’m not exaggerating when I say I could’ve stayed a lot longer.

Also good to know? It only costs 10 dirhams to visit.

The 7 gates of the Royal Palace

Before you engulf yourself in the maze and chaos of the medina, make sure to stop by Fes’ opulent Royal Palace.

While the Palace isn’t open to visitors (it still serves as official residence to the King of Morocco whenever he visits Fes), you can still enjoy the architectural masterpieces that are the front gates – all 7 of them. Take some time to marvel at the dozen different textures, colors, materials and patterns that adorn this huge structure.

Just be careful not to take any photos of the guards – unless you want to be chastised in Arab, of course.

Leather tanneries

If there is one tip I can give for this attraction, it would be this: do not, under any circumstances, refuse the mint bouquet that’s given to you when entering the leather shop. The smell gets only gets stronger as you make your way through the bazaar of bags, wallets, and belts, and get closer to the true spectacle of the area – the tanneries.

That’s when you’ll be thankful for the heaven-sent mint. Because the main ingredients of the dyes, outside chemicals, and natural pigments, is essentially bird crap and cow pee.

But do not let the overpowering smell get to you and keep you from enjoying this unique and peculiar sight: the Fes tanneries are amongst the oldest ones in the world still in function. It is truly puzzling to watch the workers jump swiftly from one vat to another without a care in the world.

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You can imagine my reaction when I read that out loud from my trip itinerary. It doesn’t sound very… Moroccan, to say the least. Where are the stereotypical camels, belly dancers and tagines?!

Needless to say, I was the first one to be surprised to learn that Northern Morocco is home to some one of the finest Roman ruins in the world. No kidding.

The Ruins weren’t appreciated for what they were until the second half of the 19th century, when the French colonies took over Morocco and excavated the site, revealing intact, intricate mosaics, and the foundations of the many buildings that were destroyed by a big earthquake in the 18th century. But the history of the site dates back much further than just 200 years ago. In fact, it was built around 3 centuries BC by Carthaginians and continued to thrive under the Roman reign until the 3rd century.

Its key to success?

Location, location, location.

Volubilis is situated on top of some of the most fertile land in Morocco and was famous throughout the Empire for its olive-growing business, grains, and wild animals that were sent to Rome for gladiatorial spectacles. Such high-quality and sought-after items made Volubilis one of the wealthiest cities in the Empire – that’s why there are so many fine mosaics and architectural structures to admire today.

Honestly, I had no idea that SO much history went down in the area. We don’t hear about it in history books, nor in history classes in high school. But it was quite fascinating to stand in a place that held such importance and wealth in other times, more exactly almost two millenniums ago.

Especially in a country in which I never thought was so involved in the Roman Empire!

Volubilis in Morocco: Good To Know

• Volubilis may seem out of the way, but, in reality, it’s only 60km from Fes and 30km from Meknes. The problem is that if you don’t have a car, it’s a bit complicated to get there. In my case, I was there for a few hours on my Best of Morocco with Intrepid Travel.

• Hire a private guide for the visit. It lasts about an hour and holds invaluable information about how this place came to be.

• Wear your walking shoes. Trails can be abrupt and slippery at times.

• Bring water – there is not a lot of shade on site and the sun shines very brightly. Hydration is essential!

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