And from my private balcony on the AmaKristina, a glass of wine in my left hand and a camera in my right, I thought to myself that surely the most elegant way to explore the arcs and bends of this region was a Rhine river cruise.

Basel

The cruise debuted in Basel, Switzerland’s third city and best known for its thriving art scene. But really it’s the delightfully colourful old town that completely steals the show.

Jetlag is ever so unforgiving, though; a compact-sized city like Basel is the ideal place to get leisurely acquainted with this yet unfamiliar time zone.

Alsace

Our captain Jan smoothly takes us to Alsace early in the morning as I get ready for the excursion to Riquewihr.

The storybook village is regularly named one of the prettiest in France and it isn’t hard to see why; time seems to have stopped about 400 years ago here, judging by the plentiful ochre-coloured timber houses that miraculously survived both world wars.

Not one to miss out on a wine opportunity, I venture into an inviting little shop large enough for just two or three customers at a time and purchase local specialties. Namely, a crisp, mineral Riesling and a bubbly Crémant d’Alsace. I also find myself inexplicably pulled towards all things edible even though lunch is merely an hour away; fortunately for my taste buds, I know better than to avoid baked goods while visiting France.

Nearby Strasbourg does not disappoint either; it’s bigger in size and much livelier than other quaint villages of Alsace. The city centre as well as the historic Petite France area are quite pleasant and the reddish, almost blush-hued cathedral is simply too stunning for words to describe accurately.

It’s easy to get lost in the details of the ever-changing governing authority in Alsace. Indeed, the strategic region at the foot of the Vosges mountain range was consistently disputed between France and Alsace until World War II. But the abundance of layers only make the visit all the more captivating!

Germany

The Rhine is progressively getting narrower and infinitely more dramatic as we ride further into the Wachau valley. The vertiginous banks are dotted with more castles than any other river valley in the world.

Our cruise director, Dragan Reljic, live commented the whole afternoon journey. Tales of princesses and kings and knights and star-crossed lovers… undoubtedly the most entertaining portion of the cruise.

We docking in picture-perfect Rüdesheim the next morning, part of Germany’s enticing Romantic Rhine. Onwards to the sunny southern slopes and numerous terraced vineyards during a leisurely gondola ride atop Rittersaal where a viewpoint of the Rhine River awaits. And it does not disappoint — from here, the entire winemaking village (famous for its acclaimed Riesling and Pinot noir) is visible. As is the Niederwalddenkmal, a soaring and intricately carved monument inaugurated in 1883 to represent the union of all German states.

And while you’re there, make sure to experience Rüdesheimer coffee especially on a chilly spring evenings. It’s basically Germany’s answer to Irish coffee! The potent digestif consists of a healthy dose of coffee and an even healthier dose of locally distilled brandy, topped with chocolate flakes and whipped cream for good measure.

Lastly on the Germany itinerary of the Rhine river cruise is striking Cologne.

Conversely, Cologne doesn’t boast a lengthy list of museums and attractions aside from its Old Town. Coupled with its most notable sight is the 13th century Gothic Cathedral, Germany’s most visited landmark and the world’s tallest twin-spired church at 157 metres tall. However, Cologne is the perfect place to pamper oneself with retail therapy thanks to inviting pedestrian shopping streets. I opted for a cheeky ice cream halt by the colourful Fischmarkt.

Amsterdam

Alas, the cruise draws to a close as our captain Jan docked in beautiful Amsterdam for our ultimate stopover. I welcome this final stop with equal parts enthusiasm and melancholy. Although I’m excited to revisit the attractive canals, I’m saddened to bid farewell to my newfound friends.

Getting purposefully lost in Amsterdam is a treat I did not dare interrupt until my feet could no longer carry me. Possibilities are endless in Amsterdam:

The Rijksmuseum!
The Keukenhof gardens!
The Anne Frank House!
The Van Gogh Museum!

Why book a Rhine river cruise?

Over the course of eight wonderful days, the AmaKristina travelled 1,233 kilometres upstream the mighty Rhine River. Passed through 12 locks. Docked in 4 different countries. Cruised by not just one but 5 UNESCO World Heritage sites, encompassing 2000 years of history.

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Home to half a dozen snow-capped Alpine peaks and countless multiuse trails, Interlaken is heaven on Earth for energetic travelers of all levels, whether they choose to embark on a dizzying ascent, or take up a soft adventure, like e-biking.

Looking for fun things to do in Interlaken, Switzerland? You’ll want to check out this travel guide for visiting the Swiss Alps.

Have a drink at Harder Kulm

Harder Kulm is a gorgeous spot for a pick-me-up with a view.

From the viewing platform at 1,322 metres above sea level, he could look down upon Lake Brienz and Lake Thun with their imposing mountainscapes—or admire the Eiger and Mönch. The Harder Kulm Panorama Restaurant is a castle amid majestic scenery.

Thun Lake to the right, Brienz Lake to the left – which one is bluer? Only one way to find out.

Harder Railway is just a 10-minute steep ride (at 64% gradient!) from central Interlaken. Blink, and it will feel like you teleported on top of the Swiss Alps.

Go for a ride on an e-bike

Frank, our dynamic guide and owner of Flying Wheels, is an energetic German import that would motivate even the laziest of riders thanks to its easy-to-use electric bikes.

Unlike North American outskirts, Interlaken’s backyard is not not lined with shopping centres or massive warehouses; much the opposite, in fact. The Bernese suburbs consists of bucolic paths leading to the Swiss Alps, sprinkled with old-fashioned wooden chalets and dairy farms. Within just a few minutes from picking up their e-bike, visitors find themselves surrounded by nature with a capital N, listening to the sound of cowbells, breathing the fresh mountain air. A genuine Swiss postcard!

The e-bike allows cyclists, whether they’re amateurs or pros, to adjust the pace of the engine according to their capacity. This means you could actually bike down these beautiful paths without sweating a single drop!

Hop on the cable car to Mount Schilthorn

It’s impossible not to be amazed by the Swiss engineering here. After an unbelievably picturesque ascent on three different cable-cars, we reached the top of Mount Schilthorn where an impressive circular panorama of the Alps was on full display.

From the Piz Gloria terrace, you can see another 200 alpine peaks. On clear days, visitors can see as far as the Mont Blanc Massif in France and the Black Forest in Germany.

Adrenaline-hungry travellers may want to plan a brief stop at Birg Station where Thrill Walk, a 200-meter-long, transparent glass walkway hangs from the steep, rocky cliff. In essence, a top activity for all mountain enthusiasts visiting Switzerland!

Hike in Lauterbrunnen

Crossing the Swiss forests and massifs, the relatively flat trail covers a distance of five kilometres, which, upon completion, connects the gorgeous village of Mürren to Lauterbrunnen (in other words “Valley of Thunderous Waterfalls”; an extraordinarily fitting nickname, since the rocky mountainsides are dotted with hundreds of cascades).

Here, travellers can find the freshest, most pure Alpine air.

From these heights, hikers can gaze at the glacial valleys covered with daffodils but also the mythical Jungfrau mountain, in addition to the several of Switzerland’s most iconic peaks including Mönch, Eiger, and Schwarzmönch.

On the way back, why not stop at the very Swiss-looking Hotel Steinbock, whose leafy terrace makes for an enchanting setting for a glass of (Swiss!) wine or two.

Reach new heights

An array of on-site providers offer paragliding or hang-gliding excursions in the region.

Departing from Harder Kulm after a funicular ascent (a 64 per cent incline!) to the summit 1,322 meters above sea level. It is then possible to put on the equipment and then throw yourself into the void over Lake Thune before reaching the mainland in the centre of Interlaken.

Post-flight, travellers will appreciate the proximity to Restaurant Laterne, whose famous cheese and champagne fondue (!) is available year-round.

Interlaken: know before you go

Getting to Interlaken

SWISS International Airlines flies from Canada to Zürich several times weekly. Interlaken is only a two-hour, highly scenic train ride from the airport.

Trains in Switzerland

Switzerland is home to the world’s densest public transit systems; furthermore, it’s also one of the most punctual and efficient.

The Swiss Travel Pass allows travellers to explore Switzerland by train, cable car, boat, and funicular over 3, 4, 8 or 15 days, in addition to offering free or discounted entry to over 500 museums across the country.

Hotels in Interlaken

• Hotel Interlaken
• The Aarburg Hotel & Café
• Hotel Oberland
• Hotel Schützen Lauterbrunnen

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This new 1000-mile long tourist route encompasses four language regions, five Alpine passes, 22 lakes, and 11 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and incalculable viewpoints. That’s a lot of places to see – which is why I picked six of my favourite spots in the country… six places that summarize what Switzerland is to me.

Switzerland travel guide: know before you go

• The Grand Tour of Switzerland is available for those travelling by car and by train.
• Should you opt for the train tour with a Swiss Travel Pass, know that reservations are never compulsory (except on scenic trains like the Golden Pass or the Glacier Express) and that it can be used on all trains, trams, buses, and boats in the country.

Lavaux vineyards

Just a few kilometers west of the castle are the Lavaux vineyards, an 800-hectare wine paradise that stretches along the shores of Lake Geneva, where Chasselas crus are king and where views are to die for. Since July 2007, Lavaux is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Whether you come in by the motorway or the route along the lake, make sure to hand the wheel to the most experienced driver – these tiny routes along the wineries are sinuous, steep, and very difficult to drive with a standard European shift transmission (for full disclosure, I asked my dad)!

I recommend Domaine du Daley, whose adorable garden overlooks the terraced vines and the pristine Lake Geneva. On overcast days, you can even make out the French Alps in the distance.

Château de Chillon

It’s hard to tell what makes Chillon so special: is it its location on a peninsula in Lake Geneva, with the Alps and France as a backdrop, or is it its long-lasting history as a Roman outpost guarding the strategic roads leading to the mountain passes?

Either way, Château de Chillon is a must, if only for the snapshots. It is a remarkably photogenic place!

Zermatt and Gornergratt

Zermatt is an adorable, car-free little Alpine town high up in the Swiss Alps shadowed by the famous Matterhorn.

The imposing mountain is often covered in fog but when it does bless us with its presence, it seems like time stops ticking, as everyone turns their head to get a glimpse of the famous Toblerone mountain.

To get the best view of the Matterhorn, hop on the highest cogwheel train in the world all the way up Gornergratt, where the might mountain will appear in all its glory – if the Swiss weather gods are kind enough to bless you with this gift. Should they be in a bad mood, there’s always the train ride itself, the Gorner Glacier, and the Lyskamm, nicknamed “the man devourer” because of its frequent avalanches.

Zurich

Welcome to Switzerland’s largest city… that is nonetheless relatively small. Zürich is a walkable, cosmopolitan metropolis where one does not only find the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant but also a peaceful lakefront and steep, historic cobblestone alleys.

There are plenty of chocolate shops to keep you sated (like Sprungli, which has an outdoor terrace that locals love) and picturesque viewpoints (Jules Verne panoramabar, Grossmünster’s bell tower, Lindenhof park) to enjoy the city and its surroundings.

Side note: Zürich airport is one of my favourites in Europe. It’s compact in size and efficiently laid-out, which makes it easy to navigate even with short connections. If you have the possibility to land in Zürich, do it!

Lucerne and Mount Rigi

Of course, a visit to Switzerland wouldn’t be complete without a stop in Lucerne. It’s consistently one of the most visited cities in the country, and with reason: with its iconic 14th-century covered bridge and its picture-perfect lakefront, it’s hard not to fall in love with it.

Lucerne is also just a short boat ride (on yet another of Switzerland’s turquoise lakes, no less!) from Mount Rigi, which can be accessed via the first cogwheel train in Europe, with scenic but dizzying views of 26 Swiss cantons and Lake Lucerne.

Glacier 3000

Now, even if you are afraid of heights, shove that fear aside and hop on that damn gondola (which is exactly what I did, with sweaty hands and shaky legs that is). It’s just too beautiful to pass up on any Switzerland travel itinerary!

The entire experience, from the ride up to crossing the Peak Walk suspended bridge, is just so incredibly thrilling, seeing as it’s 10,000 feet high over the Diablerets area of the Swiss Alps. You’ll hate yourself for the first few minutes, but you’ll soon be too busy taking pictures and picking your jaw up you’ll forget what made you nervous in the first place.

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Tidiness.
Efficiency.
Symmetry.
Cleanliness.
And just utterly beautiful scenery.

These clichés, for better or for worse, are all true. But more than just a pretty face, the cosmopolitan city surprised me in many ways with its dynamism and effervescence, something I didn’t quite expect from this notoriously homogeneous German-speaking city. I had only planned for 48 hours in Zurich because I flew SWISS’s new direct route from Montreal before going on an epic pan-European adventure.

Go on a Lake Zurich cruise

If there’s ONE thing you NEED to do in Zurich, it’s this cruise (which is included in the ZurichCARD). Switzerland is famous for its crystal-clear waters and Lake Zurich is no exception; it also beautifully showcases the Swiss Prealps as well as the city’s many manicured parks located along the water.

Wander the old streets of Zurich

One of the most fun (and cost-efficient) things to do in Zurich is just to wander around. The city is very picturesque, and its centre is filled with winding cobblestone streets, each more photogenic than the last. I especially loved my early morning and evening strolls when the streets are virtually deserted. I felt like I had Zurich all to myself.

Visit the Swiss National Museum

As one of the most important art museums of cultural history in Europe, the Swiss National Museum showcases the most significant events of the last 20 centuries, from prehistory to ancient times and the Middle Ages, with a particularly rich section focused on Gothic art and chivalry. Bonus points – the museum itself is a magnificent work of art, with dozens of towers and courts. Make sure to take a photo or two from Platzspitz Park.

The ZurichCARD is very good value at just CHF 27 for 24 hours or CHF 53 for 72 hours. It includes unlimited 2nd class travel on all forms of public transportation in Zurich, free or reduced admission to museums as well as 50% discount on public city tours.

Enjoy a refined lunch at Restaurant-Boucherie August

Halfway between a multi-centennial butcher shop and a refined contemporary eatery, August is a fascinating place to say the least. The hotel in which the restaurant is located, the luxurious Widder Hotel, is the 700-year old headquarters of the Widder Zunft (Zurich’s historic butchers’ guild) – which explains the subtle and clever touches of traditional butcher items inside the restaurant, from the decor itself to the waiter’s outfits.

Tip: if weather permits during your 48 hours in Zurich, have your meal al fresco. And whatever you do, don’t skip the beef tartare – one of the best I ever had. And I’ve had lots of beef tartare in my life.

Admire the view from atop Grossmünster

Admittedly, this is one of the most iconic things to do during your 48 hours in Zurich.

I blame it on jetlag, but for some reason, I got the time wrong and arrived at Grossmünster an hour late (hence the lack of photo evidence). But my local spies tell me that the view from its bell tower is simply outstanding.

In addition, the Romanesque church played a major role in Switzerland’s history, as this is where the Swiss-German reformation started in 1520, leading local authorities to sever ties with the papacy. There’s even a Reformation museum in the cloister.

Go up Lindenhof for the views

As a place frequented by both tourists and locals looking to chill out in this acclaimed green oasis, Lindenhof is a place everyone will enjoy. Photographers will be pleased for obvious reasons, while Zurich connoisseurs will have a blast standing on the site of a bygone Roman castle and pointing out the different historical buildings on either side of the Limmat River.

Admire the Chagal stained glass windows inside Fraumünster

Although the so-called Women’s Minster, built on the remains of a former abbey for aristocratic ladies, has a long and fascinating history, most people will head there to admire the stunning Chagall stained glass windows in the choir of the abbey. Installed in 1970, each of the five strikingly modern windows features a dominant colour and depicts a Christian story in a very graphic and typical Chagall way.

Have coffee at Kafischnaps

One of the things I really wanted to do during my short trip in Zurich was to leave the very centre and get a feel of what it must be like to live in Zurich. Hopping on the tram, I headed to Kafischnaps, a hip coffee bar between the districts of Wipkingen and Unterstrass, where I was served not only excellent cake but a warm smile, a rarity in this somewhat reserved country.

Good to know: there is more than meets the eye in this cafe, seeing as it has five small rooms to rent on its upper floor.

Eat traditional Swiss fare at Zeughauskeller

When in Rome Zurich, right? This extremely touristy spot (I suspect there wasn’t a single local in there) is kind of a must-do; the building, built in 1487, was formerly used as ammunition storage seeing as the Middle Ages were a far cry from the peaceful Switzerland we know today. In fact, legend has it that the crossbow from local icon William Tell was issued here.

Make sure to order the Zürcher Geschnetzelte, a rather hearty and traditional Zurich pan-fried veal dish served with mushrooms, a cream sauce and rösti – to be washed down with a pint of beer, obviously.

Have breakfast at Cafe Lang

A great place to stop for coffee on your way to Zurich West during your 48 hours in Zurich.

This cosy and imperial, Austrian-looking coffeehouse (with its dark wood walls, fresh flowers and mint-colored furniture) serves a mean soy latte and mouth-watering viennoiseries. Try to snag a table outdoors if you have the chance, as their patio is one of the best people-watching spots in the city.

Have lunch at Hiltl, the oldest vegetarian restaurant in the world

A little bit of veggies never hurt anyone – especially not in Switzerland, where traditional fare tends to be more on the heavy side. Hiltl was founded in 1898 and has been serving the best vegetarian buffet in Zurich ever since, now under the watchful eye of the fourth generation of Hiltl. The restaurant is massive and can easily accommodate the crowds it keeps drawing, even after 100+ years in business.

Visit the Viadukt and West Zurich

Talk about clever urbanism! More than just a trendy neighbourhood, Viadukt is an ode to creativity and architecture seeing as its shops and restaurants are housed inside the arches of the disused, 550-feet long railway viaduct. It still feels like a very effervescent, constantly evolving space that I bet will look different when I visit again this September.

Viadukt a pretty good introduction to Zurich-West, actually.

Factories have been transformed into theatres, shipyards are now art galleries, mills currently house pop-up shops. Indeed, art, design, food, culture, shopping and architecture are now the center of attention in this former industrial zone – especially at the Freitag flagship store (iconic bags produced from recycled materials taken from the streets – you’ve surely seen them before, just about every bike messenger in the world owns one), which is housed inside a structure formed by 17 freight containers piled one on top of the other.

Indulge with Swiss fondue

I tried to come up something more original than fondue (such a cliché, amirite) but there simply is no such thing as going to Switzerland and not indulge in this iconic meal. Period. Although most Swiss you will meet will rebuff at the idea of eating fondue when there’s no snow on the ground, tourists are allowed to infringe this unspoken rule. Because cheese.

Day trips from Zurich: a few suggestions (if you have time)

• Eiger – Jungfrau Glacier
• Interlaken – Grindelwald in the Bernese Oberland
• Black Forest and Rhine Falls
• Heidiland and Liechtenstein Tour
• Swiss Alps: Jungfraujoch and Bernese Oberland
• Switzerland Countryside and Traditions Tour
• Bern Day Trip
• Mount Titlis
• Lucerne and Stanserhorn Including Funicular Railway, Aerial Cable Car and Train Ride

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Switzerland’s not perfect. But it’s pretty damn close.

How’s that for a headline?

And as far as I’m concerned, Rigi and Lucerne are the living proof that Switzerland is, indeed, pretty damn close to perfection. Accessible mountains. Pristine turquoise lake. Historic, slightly quirky cities with lavish waterfront hotels. And most importantly, copious quantities of cheese. If what you’re after is the ultimate Helvetic postcard, then Rigi and Lucerne is where you need to be.

Lucerne

Lucerne is a vibrant and compact city sitting amid the snowcapped Alps on the north end of Lake Lucerne mostly known for its unique and photogenic kapellbrücke. The Chapel Bridge is a covered footbridge entirely made out of wood spanning the Reuss River, which, as if it wasn’t scenic enough, also has the particularity of containing intricate paintings dating back from the 1600s. Because they were created during a time of religious turmoil in Europe due to the rise of protestantism, the paintings depict various Catholic scenes. The octogonal tower at its centre held different roles throughout the centuries, from prison to torture chambre. As you do in medieval Switzerland.

Understandably, the truss bridge (the oldest in Europe!) became Lucerne’s symbol and busiest tourist attraction – it is NOT easy to get an empty shot of that bridge, I’ll say that!

I didn’t get a lot of time in Lucerne, just enough for a stroll around town from one highlight to the next; but even though I was pressed for time, I was still able to take advantage of the festive, thank-God-winter-is-over atmosphere that had taken over the busy waterfront terraces.

What a lovely town Lucerne is

Rigi

What occupied the bulk of my day was an excursion to Mount Rigi. Although it did keep me from spending what I felt like necessary time in Lucerne, I really couldn’t pass up the opportunity to climb (LOL no I did not attempt to hike, rest assured) atop one of Switzerland’s most famous mountains. And this little car-free adventure proved that Switzerland is just as efficient and punctual as its reputation makes it to be. These beautiful views are just an idylic ferry + cogwheel train ride from Lucerne, merely an hour away.

At a leisurely pace that leaves ample time for contemplation and photography, the cogwheel train climbs (told you I didn’t hike all the way up there!) the 1798 meters up Mount Rigi. The route is laddled with quaint Swiss chalets, lush green patches, and a handful of what I presume are rather solitary residents.

Fun fact: having been open since 1871, that cogwheel train from Vitznau on the other side of Lake Lucerne is actually Europe’s oldest and longest running railway. And, quite possibly, the most scenic. See for yourself.

Often referred to as the “Queen of the Mountains” by locals, Mount Rigi offers jaw-dropping panoramas of two cantons, 13 lakes, nine towns, and countless summits of the Swiss plateau and Alps, even as far as Germany and France on clear days. It really is no wonder so many Swiss and European holidaymakers have been flocking there in the past 200 years. Clear alpine air, wide open spaces, walking trails even non-hikers like me can enjoy; I can definitely see the appeal.

Rigi & Lucerne – know before you go

• You can get to Rigi from Lucerne as part of the Classic Rigi roundtrip, which includes the ferry on beautiful lake Lucerne, the cogwheel train up the mountain, and the cable car.
• PACK SUNSCREEN. Remember, you’ll be two full kilometres closer to the sun up there.
• 48 hours should be enough to visit Lucerne, but the city makes for a great base camp to go on day trips in other areas of central Switzerland.

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