Why the hell would I be going there if I can’t stomach 3 sips of beer, let alone a giant Bavarian jug!? That just doesn’t seem like a good time investment when spending just two days in the city.

Well, as it turns out, there is a lot more to this place than meets the eye – in fact, I bet you a giant beer jug that you didn’t know any of these things about the Hofbräuhaus. Let’s see…

Hofbräuhaus is the oldest Munich brewery

Bavaria was not very much into beer back in the 16th century. Once they started hearing about the good brews of Northern Germany, imports grew in popularity. But they came at a cost!

Therefore, the Duke of Bavaria Whilelm the 5th commissioned the construction of a brewery on 27th September 1589. His goal was firstly to decrease the state expenditure for beer imports, and secondly to provide both the Royal family and Ducal Court with beer now that had become commonplace in Bavaria by then. That is when Hofbräuhaus came to life. It produced mostly dark beers of the stout kind.

A record of official innkeepers can be traced back to the early 1800s.

Sadly, all of the rooms were destroyed in World War II bombings over Munich. All for one, the Schwemme, otherwise known as the historic beer hall. It was reopened to the public in 1958 following extensive post-war restoration work.

Is Hofbräuhaus best beer in Munich?

Not long after its opening, the beer rapidly became famous around Europe. People raved about its purity and incredible taste.

It got so famous, in fact, that King Gustavius from Sweden accepted to not invade Munich in exchange of 600,000 barrels of the fine brew during the Thirty Years War.

Hitler founded the Nazi party at Hofbräuhaus

The Hofbräuhaus is now infamously and tragically linked to the Third Reich.

On 24th February 1920, Adolf Hitler gathered quite a large crowd and made his first official speech as head of the National Socialist German Workers’ Party up on the third floor in the Festival Room. This speech contained the 25 Thesis that would go on to become the backbone of the Nazi party.

While Adolf Hitler was speaking, members of opposition parties—most notably, Social Democrats and Communists—began to argue. The fracas quickly escalated into a full-on melee as several hundred Nazis and their political adversaries began throwing punches and hurling beer mugs at each other. Hitler managed to finish his speech, albeit while dodging tables and chairs.

In November 1921, the Munich Hofbräuhaus also became the birthplace of a paramilitary Nazi street-fighting organization known as Sturmabteilungen or SA. Its main purpose was to provide protection for Nazi rallies, disrupt assemblies of opposing parties, and intimidate Jews. They played a significant role in Adolf Hitler’s rise to power throughout the 1920-1930s. 

And if you didn’t know already, Adolf Hitler was an avid painter. He was rejected twice by the Academy of Fine Arts Vienna in 1907. During his time in power he did several watercolor paintings of the Hofbräuhaus façade.

Subsequently, the beer hall was frequently used by the party to hold functions and assemblies from the 1920s and throughout the war. Due to its strategic importance to the Nazi party, Hofbräuhaus was badly damaged by allied bombings towards the end of World War II.

There are several Hofbräuhaus locations

There are 24 other Hofbräuhaus locations in the world, including Seoul, Genoa, Dubai, Stockholm and Philadelphia.

The one in Las Vegas is reportedly the first full-scale and most succesful replica of the beer house.

Famous people visited Hofbräuhaus

A lot of famous names hung out at the beer hall in its glorious years.

It is said that composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart lived just around the corner from the Hofbräuhaus in the late 18th century. In a poem he wrote, Mozart claimed that it was after multiple visits to the beer hall that he was able to muster up enough liquid courage to finish composing his opera Idomeneo.

During the time leading up to World War I, Russian revolutionary Vladimir Lenin reportedly visited the Hofbräuhaus on a regular basis. In her diary, his wife praised the tavern as being a place where “the good beer wipes away all the differences between social classes.”

Hofbräuhaus has welcomed a host of notable visitors, including painter Marcel Duchamp, novelist Thomas Wolfe, jazz singer Louis Armstrong, Soviet Union leader Mikhail Gorbachev, and American presidents John F. Kennedy and George H. W. Bush.

People use Hofbräuhaus tokens as currency

Several locals patrons not only have their own personal beer steins, they also have their own currency: the Hofbräuhaus beer token.

These tokens are issued by the brewery and not subject to fluctuations in value, unlike other currencies. They can only be exchanged for a Maß (a thoroughly measured quantity of beer consisting of 33.8 US fl oz).

Locals often joke that these beer tokens are a better investment than going to the bank… because they give you a better return on your money.

Hofbräuhaus is great even if you don’t like beer

Also good to know for the non-beer lovers like me: the Hofbräuhaus is extremely photogenic. You don’t even have to drink beer to enjoy being there!

From the massive wooden shelves filled with jugs to the live band to the typical Bavarian dishes, the place will be most pleasant for your camera. Yes, it is very touristy, and I don’t think there was a single local in there. But that doesn’t mean it’s not worth a detour, if only to get a glimpse of this legendary place.

The Hofbräuhaus is also a great place to eat traditional German and Bavarian food, such as soft pretzel, bratwurst and obatzda.

Fun ways to visit Hofbrauhaus

• Hitler and the Third Reich Munich walking tour
• Munich beer and brewery tour including samples
• Bavarian beer and food evening tour in Munich

The post 7 things you didn’t know about Hofbräuhaus appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

And from my private balcony on the AmaKristina, a glass of wine in my left hand and a camera in my right, I thought to myself that surely the most elegant way to explore the arcs and bends of this region was a Rhine river cruise.

Basel

The cruise debuted in Basel, Switzerland’s third city and best known for its thriving art scene. But really it’s the delightfully colourful old town that completely steals the show.

Jetlag is ever so unforgiving, though; a compact-sized city like Basel is the ideal place to get leisurely acquainted with this yet unfamiliar time zone.

Alsace

Our captain Jan smoothly takes us to Alsace early in the morning as I get ready for the excursion to Riquewihr.

The storybook village is regularly named one of the prettiest in France and it isn’t hard to see why; time seems to have stopped about 400 years ago here, judging by the plentiful ochre-coloured timber houses that miraculously survived both world wars.

Not one to miss out on a wine opportunity, I venture into an inviting little shop large enough for just two or three customers at a time and purchase local specialties. Namely, a crisp, mineral Riesling and a bubbly Crémant d’Alsace. I also find myself inexplicably pulled towards all things edible even though lunch is merely an hour away; fortunately for my taste buds, I know better than to avoid baked goods while visiting France.

Nearby Strasbourg does not disappoint either; it’s bigger in size and much livelier than other quaint villages of Alsace. The city centre as well as the historic Petite France area are quite pleasant and the reddish, almost blush-hued cathedral is simply too stunning for words to describe accurately.

It’s easy to get lost in the details of the ever-changing governing authority in Alsace. Indeed, the strategic region at the foot of the Vosges mountain range was consistently disputed between France and Alsace until World War II. But the abundance of layers only make the visit all the more captivating!

Germany

The Rhine is progressively getting narrower and infinitely more dramatic as we ride further into the Wachau valley. The vertiginous banks are dotted with more castles than any other river valley in the world.

Our cruise director, Dragan Reljic, live commented the whole afternoon journey. Tales of princesses and kings and knights and star-crossed lovers… undoubtedly the most entertaining portion of the cruise.

We docking in picture-perfect Rüdesheim the next morning, part of Germany’s enticing Romantic Rhine. Onwards to the sunny southern slopes and numerous terraced vineyards during a leisurely gondola ride atop Rittersaal where a viewpoint of the Rhine River awaits. And it does not disappoint — from here, the entire winemaking village (famous for its acclaimed Riesling and Pinot noir) is visible. As is the Niederwalddenkmal, a soaring and intricately carved monument inaugurated in 1883 to represent the union of all German states.

And while you’re there, make sure to experience Rüdesheimer coffee especially on a chilly spring evenings. It’s basically Germany’s answer to Irish coffee! The potent digestif consists of a healthy dose of coffee and an even healthier dose of locally distilled brandy, topped with chocolate flakes and whipped cream for good measure.

Lastly on the Germany itinerary of the Rhine river cruise is striking Cologne.

Conversely, Cologne doesn’t boast a lengthy list of museums and attractions aside from its Old Town. Coupled with its most notable sight is the 13th century Gothic Cathedral, Germany’s most visited landmark and the world’s tallest twin-spired church at 157 metres tall. However, Cologne is the perfect place to pamper oneself with retail therapy thanks to inviting pedestrian shopping streets. I opted for a cheeky ice cream halt by the colourful Fischmarkt.

Amsterdam

Alas, the cruise draws to a close as our captain Jan docked in beautiful Amsterdam for our ultimate stopover. I welcome this final stop with equal parts enthusiasm and melancholy. Although I’m excited to revisit the attractive canals, I’m saddened to bid farewell to my newfound friends.

Getting purposefully lost in Amsterdam is a treat I did not dare interrupt until my feet could no longer carry me. Possibilities are endless in Amsterdam:

The Rijksmuseum!
The Keukenhof gardens!
The Anne Frank House!
The Van Gogh Museum!

Why book a Rhine river cruise?

Over the course of eight wonderful days, the AmaKristina travelled 1,233 kilometres upstream the mighty Rhine River. Passed through 12 locks. Docked in 4 different countries. Cruised by not just one but 5 UNESCO World Heritage sites, encompassing 2000 years of history.

The post An enchanting Rhine river cruise, from Basel to Amsterdam appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

“Christmas waves a magic wand over this world, and behold, everything is softer and more beautiful.”

-Norman Vincent Peale

Arguably, winter in Europe is not the best time to visit as far as the weather is concerned. But the Old Continent does have something that other countries around the world simply cannot compete with: historical, atmospheric Christmas Markets that I gladly would — and have, in fact — endure subzero temperatures for.

Pack your winter boots, your tuque and mittens (don’t judge, that’s how we call ’em in Canada!) and your camera, because you’re in for one hell of a photogenic journey that is nothing short of pure magic.

Christmas Markets in Europe: The 6 Best

Esslingen, Germany

I’ve already written quite extensively on Esslingen and how obsessed I still am with this fairytale town even four (four!!!) years after my visit. There are several markets scattered across the tiny historical centre, each with its own vibe and specialities — paradoxically, at over 200 stalls, it’s also one of the largest in the region.

The star of the show is, however, the Medieval Market; merchants like blacksmiths, broom makers and glassblowers are clad in historical garments and demonstrate their unique craftsmanship in the same way their ancestors presumably did hundreds of years ago in this very spot.

Additional reading: The Best Christmas Markets in Germany

Vienna, Austria

The tradition of Christmas markets in the Austrian capital goes back to the 13th century when Albrecht I granted locals the privilege of holding a December Market, called krippenmarkt. The grandiose Wiener Christkindl on Rathausplatz is, admittedly, one Vienna’s largest with seemingly innumerable stalls but its self-dubbed “sea of lights” made of advent candles and outstanding setting —right in front of the imposing neo-Gothic City Hall— make it entirely worth a visit. This is also where the most active visitors will find the ice skating rink, which I graciously gave a miss as my lack of motor coordination does not allow me to get anywhere near sharp blades.

I was also able to explore the festively decorated market stalls over at Christmas Village on Maria-Theresa Platz, wedged between the stunning Museum of Natural History and the Museum of Art.I was there during the day and it made me so happy to see locals have a glass of glühwein on their lunch break (crazy Europeans, right?!).

As the world’s capital of music, Vienna is definitely the place to be for choir music as this is where the International Advent Singing festival is held every year in December. About 80 choirs from various country around the world travel to City Hall on four weekends of Advent and offer free concerts.

Charlottenburg Palace, Germany

The market at Charlottenburg Palace is definitely the most magical and perhaps the most strikingly beautiful Christmas markets in Europe. Although quite recent —it only officially opened in 2007— it really doesn’t feel like a novelty thanks to the 300-year-old royal palace, all lit up for the occasion.

There are approximately 150 vendors —making it one of Berlin’s largest— selling traditional items, like arts & crafts, ancient handicrafts, jewellery, clothing as well as several gourmet foods. Because of its extremely traditional approach, baroque soundtrack and exceptional backdrop, this particular market is the perfect introduction to German Christmas markets and a great starting point to any market tour.

Additional reading: The 8 Most Magical Christmas Markets in Berlin

Passau, Germany

It simply doesn’t get more quintessentially Christmas than in Passau. Modest in size but generous in jaw-dropping scenery, this quiet village nestled on the Austrian border is home to one of Europe’s most stunning cathedrals — i.e., St. Stephan’s Cathedral, with its three distinctive, green-domed towers — which also serves as a backdrop to the quaint Christmas market. This one is infinitely easier to explore than its more touristy counterparts; just a handful of stalls selling local crafts and fragrant foot-long bratwürst in the purest German tradition.

Bratislava, Slovakia

Bratislava‘s Christmas markets truly are a reflection of their city: compact, atmospheric, and absolutely adorable. The red-and-white awnings set the tone and are the perfect backdrop to the illuminated trees dispersed throughout the lively square. Whatever you do, though, do not think of going to a Slovak Christmas market without having one, two or three (I don’t judge) lokše, an absolutely scrumptious potato pancake that can either be served savoury or sweet — try one with bryndza, Slovakia’s most-loved cheese.

I highly recommend climbing to the top of the Old Town Hall’s tower pictured above, as you can an unobstructed bird’s eye view of the Main Square market as well as Bratislava’s castle and lovely old town.

Budapest, Hungary

Not to be undone by Europe’s more popular Christmas destinations, Budapest is a winter wonderland in its own right. With over 100 cottage-style wooden pavilions covering every square inch of stately St Stephen Square and its sky-high flickering Christmas tree, there’s no question that Budapest knows how to enjoy the holidays. Now’s your chance to enjoy Hungarian treats like kurtoskalacs (cinnamon-pastry chimney cakes) and toki pompos (flat-bread pizza with sour cream, onions and bacon) as well as largely underrated Hungarian wines.

Christmas Markets in Europe: The Ones on My Bucket List

Strasbourg, France

Stockholm, Sweden

Colmar, France

Innsbruck, Austria

Trondheim, Norway

St Gallen, Switzerland

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

St Petersburg, Russia

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Christmas Markets in Europe: Know Before You Go

• There are several ways you can plan a trip encompassing Christmas markets in different countries. You can get a Eurail pass, hire a car or if your budget allows, book a Christmas-themed river cruise.

• While markets are similar in form and atmosphere, no two Christmas Markets in Europe are exactly the same.

• Beware of the sprawling markets with “Made in China” memorabilia that isn’t even one bit authentic. Markets are supposed to be about artisans and traditional workmanship; try and prioritise these ones.

• As anywhere else in the world these days, temperatures can be notoriously hard to predict. I’ve visited Christmas markets in subzero temperatures and with loads of snow, but I’ve also drank mulled wine in balmy +10 degrees. Look at the forecasts before you leave and pack accordingly, but don’t go in expecting the perfect winter postcard — with recent climate changes, it’s very likely you might not get that experience at all.

• If you can’t bear the thought of having to buy yet another tie for your dad or bath products for your mum, why not do your Christmas shopping at the markets? You can get lovely jewellery, winter attire, gourmet treats (that you will NEVER find elsewhere), wooden trinkets and even lovely wines. Make sure you leave enough room in your suitcase for gifts!

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The post My Favourite Christmas Markets in Europe appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

Yeah. That’s as awesome as it sounds.

Being sort of an architecture and history geek, this was something I just needed to see for myself. And I’m really glad I did. It familiarised me with the Hanseatic League, with Germany’s heritage and its bucolic countryside. It also made me brush up on my German, which, unfortunately, doesn’t go much farther than numbers and greetings.

What’s the deal with framework?

The reason why there are so many half-timber houses in Germany is because artisans and farmers figured out it was as good a way as any to make things out of all the extra logs and tree trunks they had at the time, with Germany having so many forests.

The fachwerk, as the Germans call it, vary immensely from one region to another, either in architectural style or carpentry techniques; a house in Northern Germany might be slightly different than one near Switzerland, for example, depending on the local craftsmanship or wood type.

Stade

My hotel in Stade: H+ HOTEL STADE

I’ve talked about Stade before, as it was my favourite stop on my German framework road trip. If you can’t dedicate a whole trip to the timber houses, Stade makes for a great day trip out of Hamburg seeing as it’s just one hour away. The town has a fascinating history and played a major role in the Hanseatic League, and while the most picturesque buildings are of course located on the waterfront, the entire town oozes the same old-world charm.

The picture of the colourful harbour above is one of my all-time best pictures, and I still smile just looking at it. Whatever you plan on doing in Germany, do yourself a favour and go to Stade. Period.

Salzwedel

My hotel in Salzwedel: Hotel Union

I had to mention Salzwedel on the list, but not because I would recommend going; quite the opposite.

The town has beautiful buildings and an interesting history, but the tourist infrastructure doesn’t make it easy for non-Germans to stay overnight. Not to mention that the European economic crisis has taken a toll on the town, which, unfortunately, means that a lot of businesses have shut down. I feel bad saying this because I know how important tourism can be for recovering economies but Salzwedel sort of felt like a ghost town. I barely saw anyone in the streets!

In hindsight, if I had to do the trip all over again, I would skip Salzwedel altogether.

Nienburg

My hotel in Nienburg: Hotel Weserschlösschen

Nienburg was a lot livelier than Salzwedel, I’ll say that!

Between the quiet riverside paths, the animated town square and the many shops, there was no shortage of things to do and I found myself wanting to stay a little while longer (just so I could have another aperol spritz on a sunny patio). Nienburg also has an interesting maritime history thanks to the mighty River Weser, and yes, plenty of suuuuuper long low-deck boats went by during my visit.

The riverside was so calm and so soothing! One of Nienburg’s biggest traditions is the harvest of asparagus — they even have an asparagus museum and, get this, AN ASPARAGUS PAGEANT QUEEN. I’m not even making this up. Nienburg is awesome.

Wernigerode

My hotel in Wernigerode: Travel Charme Hotel Gothisches Haus

I concluded my trip in picture-perfect Wernigerode, which was my second favourite stop on the route.

Wernigerode is kind of like the jewel crown of the German Framework Road; it has a medieval castle, gorgeous mountains, a busy town centre, plenty of restaurants and shops, and, of course, tonnes of history and picturesque timber houses. I could have easily spent two or three days there scouting the colourful buildings and marvelling at the stunning architecture.

Definitely a must-do!

German framework road: know before you go & random observations

Older crowd

Regardless of where I went, I was the youngest person. From what I gather, the route and its attractions cater to an older crowd, but the 27-year old youngster that I am still thinks this is a trip for all ages.

Watch your speed

It is possible to visit the route by train, but I would recommend renting a car.

This will allow you to explore the countryside, but also to stop at the many picturesque villages along the way. Also, everyone should experience the thrill that comes with cruising down the autobahn, which, as some of you know, doesn’t have speed limits in some parts. That feeling is both terrifying and exhilarating at the same time! HOWEVER. One also has to be very careful on countryside roads, because the speed limit changes frequently between villages, and there are speed radars everywhere.

Guess who came home to a speeding ticket…

Mostly German-speaking

The route is mostly geared towards German travellers, but it is slowly opening up to foreign visitors with more and more hotel owners, shops and restaurants hiring English-speaking personnel. The language was sometimes a challenge, and if I’m honest, helpful people were far and few between (this is Germany, after all).

It was really more of a “figure it out by yourself” kind of trip, which I didn’t dislike.

My final impression

The route is beautiful and quite idyllic at times, but it does need a little more infrastructure to appeal to foreign visitors. I can see how some changes have already been made; give it a few years, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see it become one of Germany’s most popular escapades.

Additional villages to visit on the German framework road

• Esslingen (which I visited two years ago!)
• Hann. Münden
• Stolberg
• Quedlinburg
• Goslar
• Eppingen
• Bad Urach
• Gelnhausen
• Wikipedia also has a list of the most popular cities along the route. The German Tourism Board also listed its own highlights. There is also an entire website dedicated to the German framework route.

The post The complete guide to the scenic German framework road appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

And while it was later on eclipsed by Hamburg, Stade remained nonetheless a powerful seaport along the River Elbe.

This former prominent status can only mean two things for the contemporary visitor: 1, Stade was significant enough to become an administrative centre, and 2, various trades made it rich enough to build splendid and ornate buildings.

To say I was impressed to start my German Timber-Frame road trip in Stade would not be anywhere close to my actual level of excitement.

Visiting Stade for the first time

As entertaining as my guide was, I had a hard time peeling myself away from the beautiful hanse-harbour pictured above. I knew there were other parts of Stade that I wanted to see, but it was the canal and the historic wooden crate that really drew me in.

This is what I came to Germany for; these are the romantic, fascinating, physics-defying houses that I had longed for. Once I managed to take my eyes off this incredibly beautiful row I quickly realised that indeed, Stade has more than one trick up its sleeve.

While the most picturesque buildings are of course located on the waterfront, the entire town oozes the same old-world charm – with the main difference that once you dare venture in the winding alleyways, there is no one there but you, your camera and these imposing beauties.

Don’t mind if I do.

The first human settlers came to the Stade area in 30,000 BC, but the first official mention of the city dates back from 994. It wasn’t long before its strategic location, on the Elbe River, transformed the small hammock into a major maritime centre. But such a valuable land could never be safe from jealous intruders… therefore, Stade went from German to Danish to Sweden rule several times – in fact, one of the town’s most visited attractions is the Swedish Warehouse, which was recently turned into a museum.

Stade has been a Hanseatic town ever since the commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds came to be in the 14th century. Not only that – it was one of the most important trading centres of the North for several centuries, which partly explains why the town boasts so many opulent properties.

Day tripping to Altes Land

Little did I know upon leaving Stade that I would be headed to the biggest contiguous fruit-producing region in Central Europe, which extends over 143 square kilometres The Altes Land – although it means “old country” in German, it refers to the times where the region was colonised by Dutch settlers –  isn’t just made of boring agricultural lands; far from it, in fact, as it is home to splendid orchards and historic farmhouses.

My tour guide, Frank, was really excited to show me around the area since the apple and cherry trees were in full bloom. Seeing as I had gotten back from Japan a few weeks prior I didn’t expect much as far as blooming trees go (how much better could it get, I thought) but I was positively floored by the beauty and tranquility of the area.

Also, there weren’t huge crowds of fast-paced Japanese families pushing me around for photo opps, so that was a huge bonus :-)

And trust me when I say that the North American farmhouses I am used to have nothing on the half-timbered ones I saw in Altes Land – after all, I was on the national Half-Timbered Houses route!

The region is famous for its Marschhufendörfer, a unique type of village where the farmyards are typically located just a few meters off the main street, with the land directly behind them. Referred to as Fachhallenhaus in German, these houses are normally covered by a thatched roof and famous for their richly-decorated façades and elaborate gateways – of course, the more ornate, the wealthier the family. Decorative carvings and mottos were usually found as inscriptions over the entranceway, whereas the lintel gave the name of the builder, the year the house was built and a saying that best represented the families’ values.

It amazed me to see how much you can tell about the history of a house by just one glance!

Visiting Stade in Germany and Altes Land: good to know

• Stade is located just an hour north-west of Hamburg and can be reached by car and train.
• The Altes Land is just a few minutes outside Stade, and can be visited by car. However, I suggest you opt for a bike tour if you’re an avid cyclist.
• Places you shouldn’t miss in Stade: the Swedish Warehouse, the Church of Saint Cosmae, the wooden crane and the Hansa Harbour, wander the streets of Old Stade.

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Few European traditions are more iconic than the famous Christmas Markets in Germany— often imitated, but never duplicated. Created in Dresden in the 15^th century as a gathering place and local market, the markets served a practical purpose first and foremost: present-shopping for loved ones and family, all while encouraging artisans and their craft. More than just glühwein and bratwurst, the Christmas markets quickly became a staple of the German identity and extended to all parts of the country, even beyond, each region adapting the concept to its own ways.

This post contains pretty much all of my German Christmas Markets photos EVER. This is a photo heavy post to get your wanderlust sparked up!

Christmas Markets in Germany

Berlin

Charlottenburg Palace

The Christmas market at Charlottenburg Palace is definitely the most magical one in Berlin, perhaps the most photogenic as well and also the largest, with over 150 stalls and vendors. Although quite recent — the market only officially opened in 2007 — it really doesn’t feel like a novelty thanks to the 300-year-old royal palace, all lit up for the occasion. Because of its extremely traditional approach,baroque soundtrack, and exceptional backdrop, this particular market is the perfect introduction to German Christmas markets and a great starting point to any market tour. The Palace also offers special guided visits of its state rooms in December.

Gendarmenmarkt

Welcome to the most photographed Christmas market in the world! Located in the highly touristy Mitte area of Berlin, this market is easily accessible by public transportation and located within minutes of other famous landmarks like the Berliner Dom, the festive Unter den Linden avenue and Museumsinsel. The square, framed by the illuminated French and German Cathedrals as well as the Concert House, despite being quite spectacular at its bare state, is all decked out for the occasion, with a gigantic Christmas tree, dozens of wooden cabins, and even a stage that welcomes choirs, dancers and acrobats.

Esslingen

I’ve talked about Esslingen’s Christmas Market quite abundantly, and rightfully so methinks. It it without a doubt my favorite one, because the city looks like it’s straight out of a fairytale or a postcard. Located just a few kilometers outside bustling Stuttgart, Esslingen in a medieval village that was, thankfully, spared in the bombings of World War II. It’s incredibly well-preserved and colorful town center dates back to the 1600s.

Pretty much the entire city of Esslingen is taken over by Christmas markets — it seems as though everywhere you look, there is a different Christmas market. I visited a medieval one, a circus-like one and a more traditional one, all in the space of 24 hours! Esslingen is worth a visit for its sheer beauty and exceptional architecture — it is after all part of the famous German timber-frame road – especially at Christmas time, where the half-timbered houses and medieval atmosphere make for a memorable backdrop.

Dresden

Dresden’s markets have a very good reputation preceding them, especially the medieval one — it is, supposedly, the oldest one in Germany, dating all the way back from 1434. Traditionally called Striezelmarkt, a name derived from Hefestriezel, a sweet delicacy now known as Dresden Christstollen, or German Christmas Cake. And as if being the oldest Christmas market wasn’t enough to convince visitors, Dresden is also home to the world’s tallest Christmas pyramid, standing at 14 metres tall, as well as the world’s biggest nut cracker.

The iconic ginger cookies found all over the Christmas markets are called Lebkuchen, and they come in all shapes and sizes. The most common ones are heart-shaped and highly ornate icing and sporting different holiday greetings.

Munich

Christmas markets wouldn’t be the same without glühwein! Each city sports different glühwein mugs, not unlike the ginger cookies. You have to pay a deposit – usually 2 euros — for the mug when you get glühwein, after which you can carry the mug around the market as you browse and explore. You can even keep it as a souvenir!

Although Christmas Markets in Germany are at their best in the evening, they tend to get quite crowded (not to mention freezing, sub-zero temperatures). Most markets will open in the early afternoon, giving tourists ample time to visit and chat with vendors before the flocks of locals and visitors arrive after dark.

Köln

Christmas Markets in Germany are traditionally a place where friends and family would gather to chat and browse for Christmas presents. And centuries later, the tradition is still very much alive and has not changed a lot. Arts and crafts, clothing, regional delicacies and sweets abound.

Disclaimer: I was on assignment for Eurail.com on this trip. All opinions are my own, Christmas markets are cold as hell but awesome.

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And I got that in Esslingen.

Located just a few kilometres outside bustling Stuttgart, Esslingen in a medieval village that was, thankfully, spared in the bombings of World War II. It’s incredibly well-preserved and colourful town centre dates back to the 1600s — precisely the type of place I had in mind for my Eurail.com Christmas market assignment.

My visit in Esslingen started at the Kessler sparkling wine cellar, which I wrote about earlier. It was absolutely fantastic to have the cellars all to myself and learn more about this local institution. Highly recommended, and definitely worth travelling to Esslingen for.

But the real deal was at the Christmas markets. With an s. Because for such a tiny village, Esslingen has a whopping amount of Christmas markets. I actually counted four different markets within a radius of less than a kilometre: a medieval one, a circus-themed (!) one, a musical one and a more traditional one as well.

Needless to say, the few hours I spent in Esslingen were not boring at all.

Esslingen is a popular tourist stop not just because it is easily accessible, but also because it’s part of the legendary German timber-frame road, a 3000 kilometres-long — almost the entire length of Germany — tourist route that is bordered by traditional German heritage buildings like the ones pictured above. New bucket list item, perhaps?

Delicious Kässpätzle!

To pursue the whole German Christmas postcard theme, I wanted to stick to traditional meals and stay as authentic as possible. And according to my friend Yvonne, I did the right choice by picking kässpätzle, a delicious Swabian dish that consists of shell-shaped pasta (pätzle), copious amounts of cheese (käss) and dried onion toppings. At only 5 euros a plate, it was both delightful for my taste buds and my budget.

The medieval and the circus-themed markets definitely were the most entertaining ones, as expected. Sights include high-wire artist performing breathtaking feats at dizzying heights and acrobats rolling through Hafenmarkt in nothing less than a flaming wheel, as well as creative merchants and craftsmen ready to do just about anything to impress neophytes.

Job well done. The Christmas-obsessed lady over here was indeed quite impressed.

One of the traditions I took greatest pleasure in was, of course, glühwein. Anyone who says “I’m going to the Christmas market” really means “I’m going to drink massive quantities of spiced red wine“. Each city — and often each market in the same city — has different mugs, which make great collectables and souvenirs to be used back at home. Visitors have to pay a small deposit (usually between 2 and 5 euros) for the mug, which they can decide to keep or to return later and get their deposit back.

Really, if this sight isn’t worth traveling for, then I don’t know what is. Pictured here is Esslingen’s masterpiece, the ultimate Christmas-market-Disneyland postcard: the old town square, flanked by the old town hall and a good dozen medieval buildings that just add to the atmosphere. With such a stunning backdrop, I really don’t think it’s possible not to enjoy oneself.

Esslingen is what a traveler’s dreams are made of: an authentic, well-preserved place with welcoming locals that only ask to share their traditions and perspective. I have seen my fair share of quaint villages across Europe, and I can quite frankly say that Esslingen is well ahead in the rankings.

Saying that Esslingen is a perfect day trip from Stuttgart is a huge understatement. It is a destination in its own right, perhaps even more so that the big city nearby.

“Christmas waves a magic wand over this world, and behold, everything is softer and more beautiful.”

-Norman Vincent Peale

Esslingen Christmas Market: Good To Know

• The city is a 20-minute train ride outside of Stuttgart.
• Book your accommodation early, as Christmas Markets in Esslingen are hugely popular and hotels sell out quickly.
• Few people know that the city is surrounded by vineyards; make sure to include a cellar tour in your visit.
• The markets usually start in the last week of November and last until Christmas.
• Make sure to spend a whole day in the city. I was there for less than 24 hours and I felt like I missed out on some things.

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What’s not to like? Warm glühwein, delicious guilt-free treats, festive decor and music, and endless shopping possibilities.

But coming from a Nordic country myself, I was glad I got to experience Berlin under (and, well, during) a brand new layer of snow, and feel a bit closer to my home, if only for a few days.

Even though that snow meant I had one of the worst flights of my life flying in the city, and that my feet were wet for most of my time there, I didn’t mind – the spectacle was too gorgeous to complain about anything.

In an attempt to get an opinion for myself about the old West vs East Berlin debate, I walked around quite a bit in both areas, explored many of their hidden corners. And I have come to a conclusion.

I prefer East Berlin.

While West Berlin is by far much prettier, it felt too sanitized, too picture-perfect for my taste. And also, I probably was the only person NOT way ahead in their 60s. I liked the energy of the East, the quirky shops, and the funky cafés. I look forward to seeing more of it in the future.

What to do when it snows in Berlin?

I decided to indulge my inner tourist and buy a ticket for these hop on/hop off tours. I don’t usually go for them because I find them restrictive and generally quite boring but in this weather? It was the best option. I was warm, I was dry, I was entertained in my own language, and because, there wasn’t anybody but me in there, I got the best seat (aka that much coveted front seat on the upper deck!)

One of my favorite neighborhoods in the city is Prenzauler Berg – or, from what I observed, Preggo Town. It seemed as though every woman I walked past by was either holding a baby or expecting one. Not that I minded – it was actually really cute to see these adorable red-cheeked little creatures all bundled up in heavy winter gear, unable to move arms or legs.

And the local scenery was quite lovely too, in fact.

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For history to stop repeating itself, we must remember the hardship. And there simply is no better way to fully grasp the extent and depth of the great wars than to set foot in the actual places they so appallingly came about.

Here are five noteworthy World War II Sites in Europe that you must visit once in your life. To remember and honour the victims, and to further awareness of such hateful crimes.

London, United Kingdom

Did you know that the popular “Keep Calm and Carry On” posters actually originate from the London Blitz during World War II, when the slogan was plastered all over the London Underground in order to urge passengers to… keep calm and carry on with their business. After all, as so dutifully noted by author Fraser McAlpine:

Indeed, London suffered severe damage from repeated air raids; which, as unfortunate as it was, definitely was not a surprise considering the British government’s key involvement within the Allies movement. 

There are now two museums dedicated to World War II in London:

• The Imperial War Museum holds a permanent Holocaust Exhibition that traces the Nazi persecution throughout Europe in the 1940s.
• The Churchill War Rooms, Churchill’s secret headquarters and bunker in Westminster from where he led Britain to victory, tells the story of Winston Churchill’s life and legacy. The Cabinet War Rooms became fully operational on 27 August 1939, a week before Britain declared war on Germany, and were later on the scene of 115 meetings of  Churchill’s hush-hush War Cabinet.

Berlin, Germany

Germany is where it all started, isn’t it? While most of Adolf Hitler’s Third Reich decision-making happened in his beloved Munich, Berlin is where many pro-Nazi marches and terrorising speeches happened, most notably at the Reichstag. Understandably, it’s one of the European cities that was most badly destroyed by the Allies; at the end of the war in 1945, there just wasn’t much of Berlin left.

The Topography of Terrors is well worth a visit: exclusive war-time photographs and intel about the unimaginable propaganda methods used by the Nazis are the main topics here, but what really makes it a must-do is the fact that the museum is located precisely where the SS headquarters once were.

Another striking Berlin building pertaining to World War II is the Kaiser-Wilhelm Church, whose damaged spire stands today as a daily reminder of World War II’s terrors. Additionally, Berlin nowadays holds several war memorials, including the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe near Brandenburg Gate and the Bebelplatz book burning memorial—both equally moving.

Warsaw, Krakow and Oświęcim, Poland

Poland is not only the most evocative World War II sites in Europe, it’s also the most dreadful. Starting in Warsaw with the ghetto uprising, then in Krakow at the Schindler’s Factory, and ending at the gloomily world-famous Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp in Oświęcim… It wasn’t until I got to Poland that I truly, fully grasped just how atrocious the genocide was. It’s one thing to read about it in history class, it’s another entirely to enter a room where hundreds of innocent Jews were unjustifiably gassed simply because of who they were. The horrors of Auschwitz-Birkenau made me physically ill but it opened my eyes and broadened my horizons to new limits, and for that, despite everything, I am thankful.

Thankful to be alive, and thankful to be accepting of differences.

Normandy, France

Although Paris was occupied by the Nazis quite early on as the “free” French government moved to Vichy in Auvergne, Normandy was the scene of many tragedies, significantly more so as the war drew to a close in the spring of 1944. The now-infamous and infinitely sad D-Day beaches wore a blanket of blood on June 6^th, 1944, as over 135,000 Allies soldiers put in their final effort in defeating the Axis.

There are enough World War II sites in Normandy to keep anyone busy for weeks, but the most meaningful ones are located on Omaha and Utah Beaches (American soldiers) as well as Juno Beach and Vimy Memorial (Canadian soldiers). The British cemetery of Bayeux and the American cemetery-museum in Colleville-sur-Mer are downright bone-chilling.

Amsterdam, Netherlands

While Amsterdam was not nearly badly affected as other European cities as far as bomb damage is concerned, I feel like a thorough exploration of key locations of World War II sites in Europe would not be complete without a visit to Anne Frank Huis, a museum dedicated to the young author of the world’s most famous war journal. The exhibit actually takes place inside the very house where the Frank and Otto family were hidden during most of the war; visitors can even climb up the narrow staircase leading to the secret annexe so abundantly described by Anne Frank. Standing in the attic that was once home to an entire family of persecuted Jews in hiding was a very singular experience that I recommend to absolutely everyone; a truly life-changing feeling.

World War II sites in Europe – additional suggestions

• Concentration camps in Germany: Dachau, Mittelbau-Dora, Sachsenhausen.
• Wolf’s Lair in Poland: where Claus von Stauffenberg attempted to assassinate Hitler.
• Oradour-Sur-Glane, France: a village completely destroyed by the Nazis on 10 June 1944. All 642 inhabitants, including women and children, were massacred. After the war, General Charles de Gaulle decided the village should never be rebuilt but would remain a memorial to the cruelty of the Nazi occupation.
• Bletchley Park, England: as demonstrated in the movie The Imitation Game, this is where the German secret codes were broken.
• Musee de la Reddition, France: Precisely where World War II ended on 7 May 1945 after General Alfred Jodl surrendered unconditionally.
• Nuremberg: there are two significant World War II sites to see in Nuremberg, the Nazi Party Rally Grounds and the courthouse where the Nazi trials later on took place.

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