And while Japan has many fascinating cities and villages, Kyoto is the best starting point for newcomers. Not only does it boast an impressive number of temples and castles, but it is strategically located on the Tokaido Shinkansen line for easy side trips and has plenty of delicious restaurants to satisfy your appetite.

Wander around Fushimi Inari Shrine

Thanks to our little friend jet lag, you will likely be awake long before the sun makes its first appearance. Don’t worry though – get dressed and head straight to the Fushimi Inari Shrine to beat the massive crowds that will inevitably arrive each day.

Fushimi Inari features several tiny shrines and over 10,000 vermilion “torii” gates stacked all the way to the top of the small but sacred Mount Inari, the Shinto god of rice; foxes, said to be Inari’s messengers, are ubiquitous throughout the shrine grounds (in statue form, that is). A wonderful introduction to Japanese culture, that’s for sure!

Spot geishas in Gion

Welcome to Kyoto’s most famous geisha district! Here you will find experienced geishas and their maiko (apprentices), as well as a high concentration of traditional wooden machiya merchant houses. Entering the district is like stepping back in time and offers a wonderful glimpse of Edo Japan.

But whatever you do, remember to be respectful to the geishas you meet. If you want to take a picture of them, just ask – many geishas have complained in recent years that tourists act like unscrupulous paparazzi. Please don’t be one of them!

Arashiyama bamboo grove

The famous bamboo groves, also in Arashiyama, are almost too perfect to be true, and remain one of Kyoto’s most cherished highlights.

Though beautiful at any time, the grove is especially remarkable on days with a light breeze, when you can hear the tall bamboo stems swaying and brushing against each other.

Bamboo is one of the fastest growing plants in the world, with some species growing up to 35 inches in a 24-hour period – if you stand still long enough, you could literally see one grow in front of your eyes!

Mingle with monkeys in Arashiyama

On the western outskirts of Kyoto, Arashiyama, a tiny neighborhood that feels more like a mountain village than anything else, is home to a thriving population of monkeys.

A short hike takes visitors to the Iwatayama Monkey Park, where about 100 monkeys roam freely. While nowhere near as famous as the snow monkeys of Nagano, these specimens are a good compromise and will certainly keep you entertained for the duration of your visit.

The park is also a good place to admire the mountain and the Ōi River, a nationally designated Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty.

Visit the many, many temples in Kyoto

Since Kyoto was Japan’s capital and emperor’s residence from 794 to 1868, it makes sense that it would be home to some significant buildings. And that includes temples, of course – 1600 of them, to be exact!

Since a lifetime is probably not enough to visit them all, it’s wiser to start with the most iconic, starting with Toji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Located just south of Kyoto’s main train station, Toji was founded in the late 700s and features Japan’s tallest pagoda and two historic wooden temples.

On the other side of the city is Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion – which isn’t just a nickname, by the way, as the top floors are literally covered in gold leaf. It was the retirement villa of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and served as the inspiration for the similar and equally interesting Ginkakuji (the Silver Pavilion), which was later built by Yoshimitsu’s grandson. Both Zen temples have beautifully landscaped grounds and are well worth a visit.

Kyoto guided tours & day trips to consider

• Kyoto Full-Day Sightseeing Tour
• Morning Tour: Kyoto Imperial Palace, Golden Pavilion, Nijo Castle
• Samurai School
• Arashiyama and Sagano Morning Walking Tour

The post Things to do in Kyoto: highlights for first-time visitors appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

From Edo-era castles to metropolises, from shogun villages to iconic volcanoes, and from tranquil temples to surprising wildlife, here’s what I did in the space of three weeks.

TOKYO // 4 days

With most flights landing into Narita airport, it only made sense to spend a little time in the Japanese capital; plus, it’s the kind of mega city you’ve just got to be in to fully grasp its tremendous size and significance. Nevertheless, I was hesitant about spending too much time in Tokyo, however fascinating it may be, as I wanted to cover as much ground as possible.

Regardless of how much or how little time I was in Tokyo for, I simply would not forego drinks at New York Bar atop the iconic Park Hyatt: totally worth the expense, the best possible way to conclude (or begin!) this epic Japanese odyssey. This is where they filmed Lost in Translation.

Useful tip: if you’re budget-strapped, skip the prohibitively expensive observation deck fees and go to Sky Tree East Tower instead where you get can to the 31st floor free of charge; not quite as high, but still impressive (see city view photo above).

Where I stayed in Tokyo

• Millennium Mitsui Garden Hotel Tokyo

Tokyo guided tours & day trips:

• Old and nostalgic Tokyo: Yanaka walking tour
• Samurai experience
• Geisha experience + Kaiseki course dinner
• Tsukiji fish market tour with sushi making experience

NIKKO // 1 day

The small city of Nikko is located in a mountainous area north of Tokyo called the Tochigi Prefecture, and is home to some of the most famous and esteemed shrines in the country: UNESCO World Heritage Site of Toshogu Shrine, erected in 1617 to commemorate the founding ruler of the Tokugawa shogunate and ultimate feudal military government, Tokugawa Ieyasu. It’s a stretch on any typical Japan Itinerary but it’s well worth the trip.

Here, you will find luxuriant woodlands with rows and rows of stone lanterns, occasionally dotted with vermillion gates. A truly spiritual and grandiose place and one of the most popular day trips from Tokyo, although it is possible to stay overnight.

Where I stayed in Nikko

• Okunoin Hotel Tokugawa

Day trips to Nikko

• Morning hike and birdwatching around Nikko Toshogu Shrine

MOUNT FUJI // 1 day

Located right outside Tokyo, the majestic mountain is one of the most popular day trip destinations in the area. Rightfully so; the stratovolcano is Japan’s highest peak at 12,389 feet tall as well as both a Special Place of Scenic Beauty (a great page to bookmark if you want to hit Japan’s prettiest sights, by the way) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The easiest and most cost-efficient way to admire Fujisan is by sitting on the right-hand side of the shinkansen travelling between Tokyo and Kyoto. The mountain majestically soars into the picture about 45 minutes into the journey.

Day trips to Mount Fuji

Many tour operators offer day trips to the sacred mountain; should you wish to travel to Mount Fuji independently, note that hiking trails are only officially open in July and August. You can also book this VIP experience in Mount Fuji with local priests.

KYOTO // 5 days

Not only does Kyoto hold an impressive quantity of temples and castles, it is strategically located on the Tokaido Shinkansen line for easy side trips and has plenty of mouth-watering restaurants to keep your appetite satisfied. Speaking of which, most of the noteworthy temples are located in the same area north-west of the main train station, making it easy to visit all of them on a single day: I’m specifically thinking of Kinkakuji (the Golden Temple), Ryoanji and Toji-in temples.

Other fun things to do in Kyoto? Arashiyama (bamboo grove, monkey park, splendid hiking opportunities), Ginkakuji (the Silver Pavilion), Toji Temple (believe it or not, it’s an entirely different temple), Philosopher’s Walk and Higashiyama historic district.

Also, a side note about maikos and geishas in Gion: whatever you do, remember to be respectful to geishas you encounter. If you want to take a picture of them, just ask – a lot of geishas have complained in recent years that tourists act like ruthless paparazzi. Please don’t be that person!

Where I stayed in Kyoto

• Hotel Granvia Kyoto

Kyoto guided tours & day trips:

• Kyoto full-day sightseeing tour
• Kyoto Imperial Palace, Golden Pavilion and Nijo Castle
• Samurai school
• Arashiyama & Sagano bamboo private tour with nationally-licensed guide
• Nighttime all-inclusive local eats and streets, Gion and beyond
• Fushimi Inari hidden hiking tour
• Traditional tea ceremony wearing a kimono in Kyoto
• Izakaya-style cooking class

NARA // 1 day

It just ticked all the boxes of things you expect to find in a place like Japan: cute animals, wareshinobu-clad maikos, immense Buddhist temples, and mystical forests. I found all that here, in this small city just outside Kyoto. Although a destination in its own right (there are a few hotels near the train station), Nara is a worthwhile day trip from the ancient capital. It was Japan’s first permanent capital in the year 710; as such, it is home to over eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, second only to Kyoto as a directory of Japan’s cultural heritage.

Things to do in Nara

• Tōdai-ji: the largest wooden building in the world, which, astonishingly enough, is actually a mere two-thirds of its estimated original size. It contains the Great Buddha (not an understatement, at 16 metres high and 437 tonnes of bronze) is housed inside.
• Horyuji Temple
• Nara Park and its equal parts tame, hungry, and adorable deer

Day trips to Nara from Kyoto

• Highlights of Nara by bike
• Nara craft beer and sake walking tour

HIMEJI // 1 day

Confession time: I didn’t actually go inside Himeji Castle. I unknowingly turned up two days after the castle had reopened following massive renovations, and frankly I wasn’t too keen on the three-hour long queue. I decided to stick to the flowery gardens instead, knowing that another fabulous castle was on my itinerary later in the week.

Where I stayed in Himeji

• Daiwa Roynet Hotel Himeji

Day trips to Himeji

• Himeji full-day private tour with nationally-licensed guide

HIROSHIMA // 1 day

You simply can’t travel along the southern coast of Honshu Island — or plan any Japan Itinerary — and not spend some time in Hiroshima. Even though Hiroshima was largely obliterated by an atomic bomb —ironically named Little Boy— during World War II, the city is now thriving and well. Hiroshima Castle and Shukkeien Garden, two major monuments pertaining to Hiroshima’s historical heritage, were destroyed during the bombing and were later on reconstructed; they can be visited today.

The UNESCO A-Bomb Dome acts as a stark symbol of Hiroshima’s newfound peace, as only the skeleton of what once was Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall building remains. Nearby is the lush and leafy Peace Memorial Park, built over the former business district, which commemorates people who lost their lives on that fateful day in 1945.

Hiroshima guided tours & day trips:

• Hiroshima cycling peace tour with local guide
• Hiroshima bar-hopping food tour

MIYAJIMA // 1 day

Almost right across the bay from Hiroshima is the quaint island of Miyajima, home to the iconic Itsukushima Temple. Its claim to fame is undoubtedly the bold Itsukushima Shrine, which dramatically soars 16 metres high out of the water; it’s often referred to as a “floating torii gate” in popular culture. Interestingly, it’s possible to walk right up to the shrine at low tide—which is why I highly recommend spending a full day on Miyajima.

Aside from the shrine, there are plenty of exciting hiking trails in Miyajima, most specifically around Mount Misen. For great views with zero physical effort, try Shishiiwa Observatory which is only accessible by cable car.

Miyajima guided tours & day trips:

• Authentic tea ceremony experience while wearing Kimono in Miyajima
• Visit World Heritage site Itsukushima Shrine by sea

KANAZAWA // 1 day

I wanted to visit Kanazawa because of its famously well-preserved heritage from the Edo Period when it served as the seat of the powerful Maeda feudal Clan. It was one of the wealthiest clans in terms of fief sizes and rice production, but with great power come equally great threats. The Maeda clan, therefore, employed several samurais and offered them property at the foot of Kanazawa Castle in Nagamachi District, which can still be visited today.

Japan’s most celebrated landscape garden, Kenrokuen, as well as Higashi Chaya District, filled with ancient wooden teahouses where geishas work and perform, are both well worth a few hours.

Hotels in Kanazawa

The Square Hotel KANAZAWA

JAPANESE ALPS // 2 days

Moving on to the Japanese Alps for the last few days of this Japan itinerary, where I had planned on hanging out with snow monkeys and experience a ryokan with an onsen and a traditional dinner.

It was absolutely perfect and even though I was terrified of committing a cultural faux-pas I managed to make it out unscathed, and infinitely more appreciative of my time in the Nagano prefecture.

Janapese Alps guided tours & day trips:

• Full-day tour of snow monkeys, Zenko-ji Temple and sake in Nagano
• Explore Jigokudani snow monkey park with local guide
• Nagano private 2-day tour with guid and overnight at ryokan

MATSUMOTO // 1 day

The detour on this Japan Itinerary by this somewhat underrated portion of Honshu Island was mainly to visit Matsumoto Castle, one of Japan’s premier historic castles and a splendid work of art. Its value is simply inestimable, as it still contains original wooden interiors and external stonework. It really was a fascinating journey into the history of the military in Japan; the castle is awash with secret passageways, tricky steep stairs, and other secrets that only samurais were privy to. I think I ended up having a much better and more informative time at Matsumoto than I would have at Himeji, which was way too crowded.

Hotels in Matsumoto

Matsumoto Hotel Kagetsu

Matsumoto day trips and guided tours

• Matsumoto half-day private tour
• Matsumoto castle, sake, food & craft beer walking tour
• Matsumoto castle tour & samurai experience
• Japanese Alps Kamikochi day hike from Matsumoto

The post A detailed 21-day Japan itinerary appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

My tip? Break it down in palatable bites. District by district! Prioritise discoveries on a local, walkable scale to ensure a slighly less overwhelming experience.

Electric Shibuya

This area is known for being the host of the so-called “world’s busiest intersection” where thousands of onlookers, students and salarymen cross the street in a disorderly yet extremely fluid dance that only Japan seems to be capable of. Shibuya is dotted with skyscrapers, big neon signs, shopping malls and mainstream Japanese culture icons.

This is also where you find the famous harajuku alley, Takeshita-dōri, where all kinds of excesses in clothing and food are allowed. I was able to taste rainbow cotton candy twice the diameter of my head in the company of young Japanese girls all dressed in purple, hair included. An anthropological experience that has no equal! This is definitely one of the best neighborhoods in Tokyo for the hi-fi, futuristic Japan we see in the movies.

Think blinding neon lights, restaurants served by robots, deafening j-pop, animated arcades at all hours of the day and night!

Things to do in Shibuya:

• People watch at Shibuya Crossing
• Shop for Japan-made stationary at Hands
• Enjoy the free view of Tokyo on the 17th floor of Tokyu Plaza
• Experience conveyor belt sushi at Uobei Shibuya Dougenzaka
• Pay your respects at the Hachikō Memorial Statue
• Get coffee at About Life
• Have a beer in Shōwa-era style alley Nonbei Yokochō
• Shop for Japan-made home goods at Provenance
• Shop for traditional Japanese handicraft at pivoine (ピボワンヌ)

Spiritual Asakusa

Dominated by its vertiginous five-story pagoda, this district is one of the best neighborhoods in Tokyo for visiting zen temples. A far cry from the hallucinogenic facades of Shibuya!

First stop is scarlet-colored Senso-Ji, the oldest in the capital. Its origins date back to the year 628! The main attraction here is the massive 12-metre high kaminarimon lantern, dedicated to the god of thunder. The gardens behind the pagoda are surprisingly bucolic.

In the shadow of the temple is another part of the secular Japanese heritage: the hanamachi of Asakusa. It is while wandering in the narrow streets surrounded by wooden houses belonging to an outdated era that I glimpsed real geishas, dressed in their most beautiful attire. What grace! What refinement! And above all, what a privilege to have met these women highly esteemed by the Japanese society.

Good to know: the temple is preceded by a long alley lined with small craft shops, Nakamise-dōri, where high quality knives, ceramics, chopsticks, tea sets and other Japanese tableware are sold. This is definitely a highlight of what is often described as the best neighborhoods in Tokyo!

Things to do in Asakusa:

• Eat ramen at Fuji Ramen
• Get coffee at zen café Sukemasa
• Admire the great paper lantern of Kaminarimon
• Explore Denboin Garden
• Taste matcha gelato at Suzukien
• Go on a cruise on Sumida River
• Eat at Michelin-starred Onigiri Asakusa Yadoroku
• Shop for the famous Japanese food replicas at Ganso Sample
• Go atop Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center for a free panoramic view of the city
• Get coffee at Norwegian-inspired Fuglen Tokyo
• Taste the sweet ningyo-yaki at 150-year old Kimura Ningyōyaki

Charmig Ueno-Yanaka

Ueno and Yanaka are infinitely more quiet than the previous two, making them the best neighborhoods in Tokyo to visit for a brush with locals and their traditions. A day of gourmet and zen discoveries on a human scale, punctuated by encounters which, despite the sometimes funny language barriers, made me discover a friendly and sincerely endearing Tokyo.

The little green lung is vast and welcoming; one should not miss to stop at the Ueno Toshogu and Shinobazunoike Bentend temples, peacefully flanked by a beautiful and peaceful pond.

Things to do in Ueno-Yanaka:

• Explore Ueno Park, especially during sakura season
• Have Udon noodles at Kamachiku
• Eat traditional taiyaki (fish-shaped sweet pastry) at Nezu Taiyaki
• Sit down for traditional sweets and tea at Torindo
• Shop for green tea at Kanekichi
• See classic Japanese masterpieces at Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum
• Shop for manekineko (good-fortune cat statues) at Nekoemon
• Visit the Ueno Toshogu shrine
• Taste dorayaki at Usagiya
• Ride a swan paddle boat at Shinobazu Pond
• Buy a Japanese knife in nearby Kappabashi
• Admire the torii gates at Nezu Shrine
• Get coffee at local Yanaka Coffee
• Explore the 800 year-old Tennōji temple
• Design your own hanko stamp at Shinimonogurui
• Explore the Edo-era streets in Yanesen

The post The 3 best neighborhoods in Tokyo appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

In other words, it is somewhat a national obsession.

There’s even a name for this intergenerational pastime: hanami. Literally, “flower viewing”. Family and friends gather beneath cherry trees as soon for sakura-themed bento boxes and sake as buds burst open. The tradition is closely linked with the Buddhist principle of enjoying transient beauty for however long it lasts, knowing everything is merely ephemereal.

Want to know when is the best time to visit Japan and experience cherry blossom season? Read on.

When should to plan to see cherry blossom in Japan?

Now, planning a trip to Japan for the cherry blossom season can be a tricky affair. The blossoming is entirely determined by two things.

Firstly is the weather, which as we all know is highly unpredictable (sorry, weather experts of the world). The milder the weather in the weeks leading up to spring, the earlier the cherry trees will bloom. It’s also worth considering the longitude. Japan being a somewhat vertical country, blossom will normally start in the southernmost parts of the country where it is warmest and slowly ripple its way up north. For example, Kyoto and Osaka will be in season well before Sapporo is.

Secondly is the tree variety. Different types of sakura will bloom at a slightly different time and last for different lengths of time.

All in all, cherry blossom duration is relatively short at just two weeks, give or take, between the opening of the first blossoms, full bloom and the moment were blooms fall off the trees. Strong wind and rain can cut the blooming season even shorter.

In essence, cherry blossom season starts in late March in the south and lasts until mid-May up north.

Here are a few average full bloom dates according to Japan Weather Association for key cities around Japan:

• Kumamoto: late March
• Kanazawa: early April
• Tokyo: early April
• Kyoto: early April
• Sapporo: early May

Tokyo cherry blossom

There are plent of amazing places to enjoy hanami in Tokyo. Personally, my favourite was Chyoda which encompasses the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace, Kitanomaru Park as well as Chidorigafuchi. All three locations are extremely scenic and offer fun boat rides (either a row boat or a pedal boat) around the moat leading to an Edo-era castle.

I particularly enjoyed the many tunnel of blossoms all around this massive park.

Other great areas for sakura in Tokyo include:

• Shinjuku Gyoen Park
• Ueno Park (its central path alone is flanked by over 800 trees!)
• Sumida Park
• Kichijoji Pond (with its iconic swan-shaped boats)
• Meguro River near Ikejiri-Ohashi (which is lit up at night, a practice called yozakura)
• Asukayama Park
• Yanaka Cemetery
• Hamarikyu Gardens
• Kitazawagawa Ryokudo Green Road
• Mohri Garden in Roppongi Hills (also for yozakura)

Cherry blossom in Japan

Kyoto cherry blossom

Kyoto is another great city to enjoy hanami. My favourite was the serene, tranquil Philosopher’s Path. The riverside walk between Ginkaku-Ji and Nanzenji temples is lined with almost a thousand cherry trees and makes for a contemplative stroll in one of Kyoto’s most beautiful parts.

Plus, it’s also illuminated at night if you end up preferring yozakura over hanami!

There are other great options for enjoying cherry blossoms in Kyoto:

• Yodogawa Riverside Park
• Ninnaji Temple
• Heian Shrine
• Togetsu-kyo Bridge in Arashiyama
• Maruyama Park
• Daigoji Temple
• Yawaragi Road

Travel tips for getting the best out of cherry blossom in Japan

Be patient

Cherry blossom viewing being nothing short of a national obsession, crowds are expected. Not only Japanese, but other tourists as well, especially from Korea and China. Cherry blossom season is the peak of tourist season for Japan.

Get a rail pass

A Japan Rail Pass is a very good idea if you intend on criss-crossing the country in search of the best hanami spots.

Book your accommodations in advance

Airfare and accommodation should be booked well in advance in order to avoid either disappointment or a rates you can’t afford. For example: when I got to Kyoto’s Tourist Office on March 25th, there was a huge “No vacancies in Kyoto” sign in the window; not a single hotel room available in all of Kyoto for the next seven nights. In nearby Osaka, rooms were all over $400 per night. Book as far in advance as you possibly can.

Most hotels in Japan have easy cancellation policies and few require deposits. I suggest you make reservations as soon as possible and change them later on if you have to; best to be safe than sorry (or homeless, in this case).

The post Where and when to see cherry blossom in Japan appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

I hadn’t been in Japan for long – just three days, actually – but I had already understood something: although the Japanese are incredibly respectful of personal space, attractions and landmarks get insanely crowded in the height of sakura season. Obviously, my plan was a total failure. I blame jetlag.

As expected, the train was seriously packed. Still in my jetlagged state of mind, I wasn’t sure where I was supposed to get off – which became quite clear when about 99% of the carriage prepared to exit at the same stop.

Immediately upon exiting the station I saw the first of many – thousands, presumably – vermilion torri gates I would see that day. It was the beginning of a love story.

What is the Fushimi Inari shrine?

伏見稲荷大社 or Fushimi Inari Taisha is one of the most iconic and oldest shrines in Tokyo. It’s mostly known for its iconic red gates straddling a network of trails crisscrossing the wooded forest of sacred Mount Inari. Its origins date all the way from the late 8th century.

In essence, people have gathered here to pray for well over 1400 years now, be it for bountiful grain harvests, for the start or end of monsoon and for prosperous growing conditions.

In Japanese culture, Fushimi Inari shrine is the most significant of all shrines dedicated to the Shinto god of rice, Inari. Officials account for about thirty thousand throughout the country! Fun fact: ina is Japanese for rice.

If you pay close attention you’ll notice that there are several depictions of byakkosan kitsune (white foxes) throughout the vast shrine grounds. That’s because foxes are commonly believed to be Inari’s kindred messengers on Earth. There’s even a restaurant about halfway throughout the main hiking trail that serves a local tofu speciality called Kitsune Udon!

Why are Inari shrines painted in vermilion red? This particular hue of red, made from mercury and red soil, is considered an amulet against evil forces. As such, it is often seen in palaces, shrines and temples.

Fushimi Inari shrine and Kyoto travel tips

The earlier the better

The site is immense and you won’t feel cramped, but you will have to be very patient in order to get good photos if you go in the daytime. I can also imagine that it would be a much serener visit without the crowds.

Getting there is very easy

Go to Kyoto Station and follow the signs. They really are obvious, I still don’t understand how I have missed them! Get off at JR Inari Station, the second station from Kyoto Station along the JR Nara Line.

The journey takes roughly 5 minutes and costs about 300 yen return.

There is much more to it than “just” torii gates

There are adorable little shrines and temples everywhere, as well as beautiful viewing points. It is possible to walk all the way to the top. However, most visitors stop halfway at the Yotsutsuji intersection and enjoy the panorama of Kyoto before returning to the main site.

Only hikers venture further out to complete the trail. There are much fewer gates between this viewpoint and the top.

Be respectul

Japan Guide has a wonderfully detailed article about the proper, respectful way to visit a shrine in Japan.

It’s within everyone’s reach

While Mount Inari goes all the way to 233 meters high, visiting the shrine is truly accessible to visitors in all kinds of physical shapes.

Families with young children and visitors with limited mobility can stay close to the main hall. Here, they can enjoy its 5 distinct shrines each with colorful, fascinating architectural details and pay respect to the resident deity by making a small offering.

Those looking for a more active day trip from Kyoto will want to explore the forest trails. Simply go through the Senbon Torii parallel rows of gates to get to the clearly marked and paved trails. The 233-meter summit can make it a bit of a cardio workout! With proper shoes and willing calves, it will be easy to reach the summit in about two hours.

Kyoto guided tours & day trips to consider

• Kyoto full-day sightseeing tour
• Kyoto Small-Group Bike Tour
• Morning Tour: Kyoto Imperial Palace, Golden Pavilion, Nijo Castle
• Samurai School
• Traditional tea ceremony wearing a kimono in Kyoto 
• Kyoto early-bird tour
• 3 Hours Kyoto Insider Sake Experience
• Ramen Cooking Class at Ramen Factory in Kyoto
• Fushimi Inari Hidden Hiking Tour

The post 5 useful tips for visiting Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

Now, on to the serious stuff. I tested the JR Pass over a period of 14 days using many different types of trains across the country, including some of the most iconic trains in Japan, from the regional slow trains to the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it shinkansen. Start the kettle and make yourself comfortable, this is a long one!

What’s included in a Japan Rail Pass

My standard pass (i.e., not first class) pass gave me access to unlimited travel on shinkansen trains and JR lines alike without reservations or hassle. You just show up at the train station, present your pass to a staff member, and make your way to your platform. Simple as that!

Where you can use your pass:

• JR lines across Japan
• JR inner city lines in Tokyo, suburban Osaka and suburban Kyoto (I was in Tokyo for 5 days and didn’t use the subway once)
• The Narita Express
• JR bus services (I didn’t pay for transit within Kyoto, I only used the JR buses)
• JR Miyajima Ferry

There are, however, a few restrictions.

Japan’s rail network is exploited by several companies, including private ones, which are not covered by the pass. These smaller companies mostly operate in remote areas but a few, like the Nozomi and Mizuho bullet trains, are present in big cities and can easily be confused with the JR bullet trains. This is probably the only negative aspect of the JR Pass: while the network isn’t restrictive by any means, it doesn’t cover everything, and if you want to venture far off the beaten path, well, it’s gonna cost ‘ya.

How to get a Japan Rail pass

• You can’t purchase the pass in Japan. You MUST order it online before you leave.

• You will need to activate your pass at a JR rail exchange office before you can use it. It has to be stamped and authenticated by a member of staff in order to be valid for travel. I went to the station at Tokyo Narita airport.

• I used HyperDia.com to look up timetables and itineraries. You can select the types of train (or, incidentally, untick the Nozomi trains) you want or can travel on and view up to five different routes for your journey.
• You can’t go through turnstiles with your JR Pass. You have to go head to the fare booth at either ends of the gate and show your pass to a JR employee. I’m only saying this to spare you from being that annoying westerner blocking the turnstiles while trying to swipe your pass (sadly, a true story).
• Although most trains have many empty seats due to regular service, reservations are sometimes necessary on busy lines during holidays.
• Remember, though, that most JR employees don’t speak English so prepare accordingly and print out a copy of your itinerary in Japanese.

Is the Japan Rail Pass worth the price?

Whether or not the pass is worth it entirely depends on your itinerary. At this point, it really depends on the type of traveller you are.

The bottom line is that if this is your first time visiting Japan and you want to tick the main sights off your bucket list, then yes, absolutely, the Japan Rail pass is worth it.

Unless you plan on sticking to one or two cities, I wouldn’t recommend going to Japan without a Japan Rail Pass in this scenario (or, at the very least, a regional pass). I sincerely appreciated the peace of mind that pass gave me, not having to worry about communicating in a language that isn’t my own, about surprisingly expensive fares, about anything, really. All I had to do was sit back, show my pass when asked, and enjoy the remarkable Japanese scenery.

Once you get the hang of it, the Japan Rail Pass is an absolute life-saver.

What is not worth the expense, in my opinion, is the first class pass that will grant you access to the green cars. The standard cars are comfortable, spotless, and in overall, irreproachable; I don’t feel like the first class is an absolute necessity in the way it is with the Eurail pass, for instance.

How much is a Japan Rail Pass?

Prices start at $278 for a 7-day pass and $444 for a 14-day pass. Considering a Tokyo-Osaka shinkansen ticket roughly costs $90, the pass ends up paying itself in no time if you move around every few days like I did. Considering I took the train on 19 separate occasions for both long and short distances, boarded one ferry, and hopped on countless buses, I saved over $1000 with my pass – the Narita Express alone is $29 each way.

Sorry JR, you didn’t make a yen of profit with me ;-)

Low-cost trains in Japan

What about driving in Japan?

I rented a car to tour the Japanese Alps because many of the destinations I wanted to visit were either not accessible in a reasonable amount of time or were simply not serviced by Japan Rail.

Admittedly, I was even a little bit excited about finally driving on the “other side of the road”.

But what I had failed to look up were the tolls—rookie mistake, I know. And a costly one at that! We almost had a heart attack upon paying the first one: $51 for a 30-kilometre journey between Nagano and our ryokan in Yudanaka… more than what we paid for the two-day rental! We ended up returning the car after one day because it was so bloody expensive to keep it, skipping a few destinations and taking the train straight to Matsumoto Castle further south.

In short: under no circumstances would I ever recommend driving in Japan, especially considering how efficient and extensive the rail network is.

Japan Rail Pass tips and trains in Japan

Europeans and North Americans typically avoid the food sold in train stations (ew, gross!); however, grabbing a bite on the platform is commonplace in Japan and an experience in its own right. As it should be! The food is delicious, well-priced, and readily packaged for takeaway.

Train employees on the platforms will bow at arriving trains; conductors and other train personnel will bow upon leaving a car. Every. Single. Time.

On a totally unrelated but not any less interesting note, everyone should see the cleaning teams at work at least once in their life. They robotically clean out an entire train (FYi – each car has 100 seats) in just seven minutes. Because Japan.

Japanese people tend to be very quiet on the train. Don’t listen to loud music in your headphones, keep the talking to whisper level, and for the love of God don’t blow your nose unless you want to cause mass panic.

You can get discounts on JR Hotel Group with your pass. I didn’t find anything that suited my taste or needs so I didn’t use it, but it’s good to know it exists.

In smaller commuter and regional trains, seats can easily be switched directions because they are equipped with flipping back rests. Some shinkansen trains even have automatic rotating seats! The Japanese do not like to face backwards.

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Some of these stereotypes turned out to be veridic.

But in other aspects, Japan and Japanese people are nothing like I imagined them to be. I’ve been pleasantly (and not so) surprised, after two weeks of criss-crossing the country. Here are, in no particular order, my impressions on Japan. These are purely personal and I don’t necessarily think of them as generalities, just mere interpretations of the complex Nippon culture.

There are relatively few cars in Japan

There are many more bicycles, pedestrians, trains and buses than there are cars in Japan – despite the country being home to over 125 million people and being one of the world’s leading automotive forces. But after renting a car to tour the Japanese Alps, I can see why there are so few cars in the country: tolls can cost as much as $25 each way for a 50 kilometre stretch and petrol prices are completely prohibitive.

This is not only good news for the environment, but also for noise pollution; Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto are surprisingly quiet (pair that with extreme politeness of Japanese drivers, and it’s possible you won’t hear a honking sound for the entire duration of your trip).

Few places accept card payments

For a country so notoriously technologic and forward-thinking, Japan has serious lacks as far as electronic payments are concerned. I’ve only been able to pay with my credit card ONCE since I’ve been here (two full weeks!).

It’s a good thing Japanese people aren’t into stealing stuff because I’ve never carried this much money in my wallet. Pickpockets in Europe would have a field day following me around town!

Japan is incredibly safe

Case in point in the previous statement. I’ve rarely felt unsafe in my travels but Japan has got to be the least worrying place I’ve been to. My biggest concern is usually to make sure I don’t board the wrong train, not if I should avoid that alley or cross the park by myself.

I am always street smart but I feel like I don’t have to be super conscious of my surroundings here – stealing, aggressing, mugging or taking advantage of another person just aren’t part of the Japanese culture (I’m not saying tragedies don’t ever happen, but that they are much less frequent here than in other countries).

With just two (!!!) gun-related homicides last year, suffice to say that Japan is an ideal country for a solo female traveller.

English is seldom spoken

Perhaps I’ve been spoiled in Europe where English is quite common, but English isn’t widely spread in Japan. Not that this is a bad thing per se; it simply makes interactions more difficult than I’m accustomed to. There doesn’t seem to be English-speaking TV channels available and local popular music is notoriously Japanese-oriented (ever heard of the J-pop phenomenon?).

Mind you – I’m not one of those “let’s have the ENTIRE WORLD speak English” advisers. English isn’t even my first language, remember?

But I do think of it as the universal language, one a whole lot of people on the planet speak at least a little bit of, and the key to most communications for visitors in foreign countries.

Basic notions in Japanese are required to travel in Japan, even in Tokyo.

Japanese people are extremely well-mannered

This didn’t come so much as a surprise, but more like a confirmation of my expectation. Everyone I’ve met so far has been perfectly polite and proper. It’s really quite endearing! I’ve said and heard Arigatou gozaimasu more times than I can count, and have been met with a sincere smile every time.

Every station has a different jingle

Subway and train stations in Japan use musical jingles to announce the imminent arrival of a train or closing doors. But these aren’t just your run-of-the-mill “to-do-doom” jingles, it’s a full on symphony at times, lasting as long as 10 seconds (I counted). I’ve never heard the same jingle twice as of yet.

I actually did a bit of research on the subject since I suspected this wasn’t simply due to creativity on the train operator’s part, and indeed, there’s science behind it: jingles were initially created to encourage timely but unhurried boarding and disembarking.

Departing train melodies are arranged to invoke a feeling of relief for passengers having just boarded the train; in contrast, arriving train melodies are configured to cause alertness in travellers and commuters who might have dozed off during the ride.

Japan can be hard to navigate when you are not riding a Shinkansen

I came to that conclusion the hard way: it’s not because a train says it’s going to X that it’s the fastest train to that destination (for example, visitors in Tokyo should board the Osaka-bound Shinkansen for Kyoto, and not a Kyoto-bound train).

It takes a while to become familiar with train lines and to know the difference between local, express, super express and limited express trains. One shouldn’t automatically assume that all trains are lightning fast in Japan, because they are not.

Japanese culture is so incredibly alive

Perhaps due to blatantly low immigration (roughly 90% of the Japanese population is of Japanese descent) and a somewhat closed-off attitude, Japanese traditions have remained fiercely strong over the past centuries.

That is not saying that Japan is permeable to outside influences, but its culture and its history are constantly showcased throughout various events around the country, significantly more so than other places I’ve been to. It seemed to me that instead of being uninterested in what their home country has to offer like most Westerners, Japanese are fundamentally intrigued and fascinated by their own heritage.

National tourism is extremely high around here, and although that could partly be explained by the fact that most Japanese workers get short holidays, making it difficult for them to travel overseas, I think they are simply genuinely interested in celebrating their customs. As they should!

Japanese people are incredibly helpful

The Japanese’s level of customer service certainly goes hand in hand with their naturally courteous manners – I’ve rarely felt more cared for as a customer than I did in this country. It seems that it would be unthinkable for them to leave a visitor, especially a foreigner, hang high. Some people have literally gone out of their way to show me to my destination (an elderly lady in a udon shop even offered to take me to the train station, which turned out to be a 30 minute walk!) and I genuinely appreciate their efforts despite our mutual lingual difficulties.

On the other hand, I think this obsession with being helpful sometime leads to complicated yet totally avoidable situations.

I’ve sometimes been led in the wrong direction or given incorrect information (and I could tell the person helping me had no idea what they were doing, and I’m pretty sure they knew I was aware of that, making our interaction even more uncomfortable), all for the sake of avoiding to utter the words “I’m sorry, I don’t know”. A wrong answer is better than no answer at all, from what I gather? I realize it’s irrational to hold their obsession with impeccable customer service against them, but sometimes an honest answer is all a girl needs.

There are vending machines everywhere

I was sort of expecting this to be a myth but it really isn’t: I suspect there are more vending machines in Japan than humans.

Outside apartment buildings, on railway platforms, inside subway stations, on street corners, these machines offer all kinds of drinks from warm green tea to coffee shots and regular OJ for roughly $1. Japan has your hydration levels at heart.

The post First time in Japan: 11 things that surprised me appeared first on To Europe And Beyond.

It seems as though traditional Japanese notions of comfort and chiropractic were a little too primitive for this occidental traveller, who woke up feeling like she’d aged about 94 years overnight.

Now on the final stretch of my time in the otherwise underwhelming Nagano prefecture, I thought to myself that I had surely kept the best part for dessert. I wasn’t wrong.

Where to find snow monkeys in Japan

The rather contentiously-named Hell’s Valley (Jigokudani Yaen-Koen or 地獄谷, a common name for Japanese passes with volcanic activity) turned out to be quite lovely, in fact.

Scattered with steaming hot springs, sulfurous streams, and untouched woodlands, the short hike indeed revitalised my body while my mind grew increasingly restless, wondering “if we were there yet” at every turn, eager to finally meet the legendary snow monkeys in Japan.

And, at last, I did.

Japanese macaques live in matrilineal societies and evolve in large social barrels (yes, that is the world used to describe a group of monkeys — you’re welcome) following strict and complex hierarchical principles, in which specific groups hold great authority over other, lower-ranking groups.

Male macaques are nomadic in nature, leaving their natal family before they are sexually mature and moving on to several barrels throughout their lives. Perhaps as an attempt to climb the dominance hierarchy and eventually hold the coveted alpha position, which only ever changes when the current alpha leaves the group or dies.

On the other hand, female macaques will stay in the same group for their entire lives, both creating and maintaining social relationships through grooming. It’s not uncommon for them to start grooming macaques they are not related to simply to ensure cohesion between the different kinships in the barrel.

Dominant females form an extremely strong bond over the years, sometimes even going as far as raising newborns that are not their own or forming alliances to secure the position of a common dominant male. And while higher-ranking, dominant males can impede consortships of subordinate macaques, ultimately, female macaques decide whether or not mating takes place at all.

Not to say that females run the show, here, but they kind of do.

I couldn’t believe how remarkably human Japanese monkeys (Nihonzaru orニホンザル) looked and acted.

Throughout my visit at Jigokudani, I was completely enthralled by their complex interactions (recent studies have even shown that macaques develop accents) and the oddly familiar shape of their hands — although I’m sure good ol’ Darwin would most definitely not think of it as ‘odd’.

I stayed at the onsen for over an hour; my inclination to indulge my fascination for the animal reign could have very well persuaded me to stay longer if it wasn’t for the train I had to catch back to Tokyo.

Rarely have I been so mesmerised by a tourist attraction; perhaps it was because of their mindbogglingly relatable features, which made it physically difficult for me to move and focus on anything besides their expressive eyes, their willowy fingers, their communicative coos.

These monkeys will forever hold a special place in my heart

Day trips to Jigokudani

• Full-Day Tour of Snow Monkeys, Zenko-ji Temple and Sake in Nagano
• Nagano Private Two Day Tour with Guide, Private Vehicle and Overnight at Ryokan
• 2-Day Nagano To Takayama Tour: Snow Monkeys & Highlights Of Central Japan

Travel tips for seeing monkeys in Japan

Is it ethical?

This is not a zoo. I am firmly against animal exploitation in any form, and this park didn’t feel like a tourist trap whatsoever. As you can see, monkeys are free to wander around as they please and they seem far more curious about than frightened by human presence. There is only one warden on site, and he only intervenes (by shouting keywords) when monkeys jump on visitors or try to steal something from their pockets.

Animal rights are something I hold very dear to my heart, and I didn’t feel like I was encouraging any kind of detrimental industry by visiting Jigokudani.

They might look almost human, but they are wild animals and might perceive your curious gesture as a sign of aggression. Also, don’t EVER feed them.

Do I need a car to get there?

No, you don’t. If you’d rather travel by rail (which I highly recommend you do, as car rentals in Japan are very expensive), get off at either Yudanaka, Nagano or Shibu and take the bus to Kanbayashi Onsen. From there, it’s a 35-minute walk through the bucolic alpine forest.

How much does it cost?

Entry at Jigokudani costs 500 yen (roughly $5).

Where to stay?

I stayed at ryokan Yudanaka Seifuso. If you don’t have a car, the owners will take you to the monkey park’s parking lot.

What do I need to bring?

The park is located two kilometres from the parking lot, so you’ll need to walk a bit to get there. It’s actually a good thing as the scenery is stunning. Make sure you wear closed-off and waterproof shoes, as the trail can get quite muddy.

Is there an alternative?

If you can’t make it all the way to the Nagano prefecture but still want to see monkeys in Japan, there is a similar albeit much less picturesque monkey park in Arashiyama, just outside of Kyoto.

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