The best Ireland travel tips | To Europe and Beyond https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/category/ireland/ A Solo Female Travel Blog Sun, 09 Nov 2025 18:52:25 +0000 en-CA hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.3 https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/cropped-cropped-Capture-décran-le-2019-01-11-à-17.28.29-1-32x32.png The best Ireland travel tips | To Europe and Beyond https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/category/ireland/ 32 32 The Best Airbnbs in Every Country in Europe https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/airbnbs-in-europe/ Thu, 16 Oct 2025 02:05:18 +0000 http://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/?p=16396 Planning on visiting the Old Continent in 2026? Good — you’re in for a treat. I’ve got a few suggestions...

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Planning on visiting the Old Continent in 2026? Good — you’re in for a treat. I’ve got a few suggestions from all over Europe. Well, at least the 27 countries I’ve managed to visit so far. Holiday apartments are a brilliant way to save on accommodation while getting a genuine taste of local life — think morning coffee in your own kitchen, laundry facilities after a long train ride, and the pleasure of wandering through neighborhoods where locals actually live. My picks are, for the most part, the normal kind — nothing too luxurious, nothing too frugal. Just that sweet spot of convenience, value, looks, and comfort. Everything you need for a truly memorable vacation.

Happy travels!

* All images courtesy of Airbnb
** All prices in $CAD

FRANCE – Eiffel Tower Airbnb

airbnb eiffel tower

Imagine waking up to this view every morning! Of course, such a privilege comes at a premium; with rates going as high as $650 per night, not just anyone can afford to marvel at the Paris skyline while sipping on their morning café au lait. But it sure is an unforgettable experience!


Iceland – Luxury villa

airbnbs in europe iceland akureyri

Experience this ultra-modern, bold villas in the tranquil village of Akureyri in Northern Iceland, with nature at your doorstep. This is an excellent option year round, as you can both enjoy the midnight sun in the summertime as well as the aurora borealis in the wintertime – as you know, Iceland is always a good idea.


Ireland – Restored church in Galway

airbnbs in europe church galway ireland

Experience life in a 200-year old restored church just a few minutes from lively Galway, on the scenic western coast of Ireland. Although the church is equipped with every modern amenity, it’s also kept many of its original features – definitely an unforgettable, unique adventure!


Cinque Terre, Italy

airbnbs in europe cinque terre italy
  • Airbnb in Cinque Terre
  • $128 per night

Quite possibly the best balcony in Italy! The apartment is small but frankly this is not the main selling point here, as the romantic terrace overlooks the village of Corniglia in Italy’s legendary Cinque Terre.


Norway – Sognefjord Airbnb

airbnbs in europe norway fjord

This old thing? Just a fabulous cabin by one of Norway’s most famous fjords. Perfect for hikers and boat enthusiasts – as for me, I will just enjoy a chilled glass of white wine on that lovely waterfront terrace, thank you very much.


Scotland

AIRBNB IN SKYE

A luxury self-catering studio for two on the edge of a bird sanctuary with stunning views of Beinn na Caillich mountain, this bijou Airbnb is close to many Skye attractions as well as a number of shops. The power shower, the cosy fireplace as well as the downright idyllic setting make it a top accommodation of the Isle of Skye. I stayed there myself and had a wonderful time; Fiona is a lovely host.


Scotland – Wigtown Bookstore Airbnb

airbnbs in europe bookshop scotland

Bookworms of the world, rejoice: this amazing Airbnb features not only a flat but most importantly the first ever bookshop holiday/residency experience at The Open Book, a charming bookshop in the heart of Scotland’s National Book Town, Wigtown. Meet fellow book lovers and learn everything there is to know about Scottish literature with the help of friendly locals.


Switzerland – Après-ski cabin

Luxury chalet in the French Alps Montaimont
Luxury chalet in the Alps
  • Luxury chalet in the Alps
  • $191 per night

Whether you’re in it for the ski or the après-ski, this beautiful luxury chalet in the French Alps (just a few kilometres from a ski resort) features an unusually high cathedral ceiling as well as a wood-burning fireplace – the perfect backdrop for a well-deserved cheese fondue. When in Rome, right?


  • https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/49372736
  • https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/283638
  • https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/49374597
  • https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/34444025
  • https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/18132082
  • https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/36105750

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How to drink Guinness like the Irish https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/the-art-drinking-guinness/ Thu, 06 Jul 2023 13:46:00 +0000 http://www.eurotriptips.com/?p=6516 “Drink Guinness” is never going to be the first thing on my to-do list. Let’s be honest, it’s not exactly...

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“Drink Guinness” is never going to be the first thing on my to-do list. Let’s be honest, it’s not exactly my idea of a good time. I’ll take a cautious sip, contort my face into every unflattering grimace imaginable—as if I just bit into a sour lemon—while my friends howl with laughter, calling me a “filthy pagan” (cheeky, right?), before I promptly set that pint down like it’s a ticking time bomb. Yep, that’s just how it goes. I hate Guinness.

But hold on—I’m not here to throw shade at the black stuff. It’s not that I detest the taste; I just can’t stomach it like some do. Still, I do respect the ritual, the strict protocol, and honestly, the pure artistry behind pouring a proper pint. Because believe me when I say, Guinness isn’t your average beer you slam back in one go. It’s more like a delicate dance, a slow-burning ceremony that demands patience, skill, and probably a lifetime of practice to master.

Cheers to that!

Crafting the perfect pint of Guinness

Carlingford in Ireland's Ancient East

If you’ve ever ordered a Guinness before, you probably noticed it takes a bit longer to arrive than your typical lager. That’s because the perfect pint isn’t just poured—it’s crafted. There are four precise steps every bartender follows to get it just right, and no, I’m not exaggerating when I say it’s an art form.

  1. Choose the Right Glass
    First, it has to be served in an official Guinness tulip-shaped pint glass. Any other glass? Not worthy. This is serious business.
  2. The 45-Degree Angle Pour
    The bartender opens the tap and fills the pint at a perfect 45-degree angle, stopping right at the harp logo on the glass. No more, no less.
  3. The Wait
    Then comes the hardest part—putting the pint down and walking away. Yes, even if it feels weird to leave a half-full glass sitting there. It needs to settle for exactly 119.53 seconds (or roughly two minutes, but the Guinness folks are very precise). The stout’s nitrogen bubbles rise to the top, creating that iconic creamy head. If you try to touch or mess with it during this time, you’ll quickly learn that the Irish take this seriously—so seriously that shooing off curious fingers is part of the protocol.
  4. The Final Top-Up
    Finally, the bartender slowly tops off the pint, pushing the tap gently to create the famous dome-shaped, velvety head that Guinness is known for.

Drinking Guinness the Irish Way—And Why I’ll Never Master It

If pouring is an art, drinking Guinness is a performance. Here’s where years of practice come in handy. To drink it “right,” you don’t just sip away mindlessly—you’ve got to savor it in exactly four giant gulps. Yes, four. Not five, not six, but four big, deliberate swallows.

The trick is all about timing and rhythm:

Gulp one: from the rim to just shy of the logo—no cheating!
Gulp two: tackle the slope where the glass starts playing hard to get.
Gulp three: own the bottom half like a champ.
Gulp four: finish strong—no drop left behind!

Think it’s easy? Think again. I’ve watched seasoned Irish men nail it with the grace of a ballet dancer and the precision of a surgeon. Honestly, it’s impressive—and just a little intimidating.

The Irish take their Guinness seriously, with pride and patience you can’t fake. Me? I’m perfectly happy to stand back, sip cautiously, make my usual grimace, and accept that downing a pint in four giant gulps isn’t happening anytime soon—if ever.

They honor the craft and history behind their beloved black nectar, and I admire that. As for me, I’ll leave the four-gulp challenge to the pros while I enjoy the show… and maybe nurse my pint a little longer.

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Irish pubs in Ireland

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Carlingford: the prettiest village in Ireland’s Ancient East https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/carlingford-ireland-ancient-east/ Mon, 20 Jul 2020 14:00:00 +0000 http://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/?p=19413 Nestled on the east coast of its eponymous lough, Carlingford is a small town with big charm right along the...

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Nestled on the east coast of its eponymous lough, Carlingford is a small town with big charm right along the Northern Irish border.

But with a name dating back to the Viking days of Ireland, it’s clear that there’s more than meets the eye here: indeed, this scenic seaside dwelling is awash with history – as is the rest of Ireland’s Ancient East.

Carlingford means Kerlingfjǫrðr, or fjord of Carlinn in Old Norse

Although I only had a few hours to explore, I immediately fell under Carlingford’s powerful spell, with its luxuriant rose bushes and crooked centennial houses. This awe only grew stronger as I settled in a pub for the evening, indulging in proper grub and good olde’ craic. This is Ireland, after all; best to do as the locals do.

Carlingford, one of the most beautiful villages in Ireland

The weather was gloomy and muggy when I got to Carlingford —again, this is Ireland we’re talking about, there’s a reason everything’s so green and lush— but nothing could keep me away from the romantic waterfront cottages I saw peeking through the thick fog ahead of me.

I squinted my eyes just enough to make out the silhouette of castle ruins in the distance: that would be the remains of what once was the massive fortress of King John Castle, Richard the Lionheart’s brother, who visited Carlingford in 1210.

My visit wasn’t off to a bad start at all.

Carlingford’s lack of heavy industry, unlike the rest of Ireland, allowed its mediaeval layout and archaeological artefacts to remain relatively intact; in fact, Carlingford’s old town is often dubbed “Ireland’s best-kept secret” as it features an almost unaltered 15th-century public building named tholsel, one of the few left in the country. They’re thought to have served a myriad of purposes, from city hall to courthouse, from guild hall and to customs house. And as I walked further into Carlingford from the harbour I crossed this highly historic town gate and entered the pedestrianised area, dotted with colourful pubs and sprawling terraces filled with locals enjoying an after-work pint.

Indeed — Ireland’s Ancient East is full of surprises.

Most beautiful village in Ireland, Carlingford, in Ireland's Ancient East
 Carlingford’s lovely pedestrian centre
Carlingford Ireland's Ancient East
My favourite pub in Carlingford – Ma Bakers
Carlingford in Ireland's Ancient East
Market Street
Carlingford Ireland's Ancient East
Tholsel Street
Carlingford Ireland's Ancient East
Tholsel Street

A night at the pub in Carlingford

Clearly, I knew better than sitting this one out.Irishmen and women are just as part of the experience in Ireland’s Ancient East as the sights themselves. There’s just something impossibly compelling about these wholesome, genuinely kind Irish folks that makes you warm to them instantly. Even I, a notorious non-people person, know that resistance is futile.

There’s also something oddly comforting in seeing a succession of Irish clichés we expect and hope to be true come to life before our eyes:

  • Fish & chips with a generous share of Guinness
  • Céilí and set dancing
  • A characterful and funny singer
  • Plenty of sing-alongs
  • (more Guinness)
  • And, most importantly, memorable craic

If you’re truly lucky you might also get invited to partake in an Irish coffee lesson at PJ O’Hares; trust me when I say there’s much more to this late-night kicker of a cocktail than just whisky, coffee, and thick cream. It’s an art!

Did you know, by the way, that Irish coffee was conceived by a fella named Joe Sheridan in County Limerick, who, on an awfully cold 1940’s winter night, added whisky to coffees he handed to Pan Am flying boat passengers in order to warm them up, immediately dubbing his rather clever creation “Irish coffee”.

And the rest, as they say, is history.

Carlingford, Ireland – know before you go

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Ireland’s most visited attraction – the Cliffs of Moher https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/cliffs-of-moher-ireland-travel/ Mon, 24 Sep 2018 14:43:09 +0000 http://www.eurotriptips.com/?p=7324 As it usually is along the coast, the wind was bitterly cold on the Cliffs of Moher in Western Ireland....

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As it usually is along the coast, the wind was bitterly cold on the Cliffs of Moher in Western Ireland. The wild Atlantic breeze blew me back inland as I made my way to the edge, reminding me that Mother Nature is still very much the master here.

Dramatically rising 700 feet high out of the ocean, the 8-kilometres long Aillte an Mothair are by far Ireland’s most popular attraction and once you stand there, with the striking headlands rolling off into the distance and stopping the crashing waves in their tracks, it’s not hard to see why visitors flock here.

Located at the southwestern edge of the Burren region in County Clare, the limestone cliffs have been carved by over 300 million years of treacherous storms, relentless waves and bitter winds. Rising up from the churning Atlantic Ocean and looking out onto the Aran Islands, the hills of Connemara and Galway Bay on the clearest of days, which admittedly don’t come ’round too often in these parts, the view from the Cliffs of Moher is nonetheless one to behold.

The Cliffs of Moher were one of the top attractions on the Shamrocker Tours 7-day itinerary around Ireland. I was positively excited to finally lay eyes on them! They are indeed quite famous in pop culture, having been featured in motion pictures like The Princess Bride and even Harry Potter.

Some of you may actually know them as the Cliffs of Insanity…

“- You seem a decent fellow, I’d hate to kill you.
  – You seem a decent fellow, I’d hate to die.”

 


They were also seen in Harry Potter and The Half Blood Prince, when Dumbledore and Harry go on a quest to find a horcrux in the cave you see on the lower left side.

cliffs of moher cliffs of moher cliffs of moher cliffs of moher cliffs of moher cliffs of moher

Visiting the Cliffs of Moher – Good To Know

There are two ways to visit the cliffs: 

  • Firstly: a safe, sensible one that keeps you clear of the edge and leads you to the visitor’s centre for  a warm cuppa, It’s all well-thought out, because the centre was literally built onto the hillside so as not to obstruct the view.
  • Secondly: another, more reckless yet thrilling way, beckons you to disregard common sense and climb over the safety barrier for a leisurely (LOL!!!) walk along the cliff edge. Do so at your own risk, however; strong blasts of winds blowing people off to their deaths an unforgiving 700 feet below is not unheard of. Don’t be that person!

Because I visited with a tour group I was only there for an hour, but I strongly recommend alloting a solid three hours at the Cliffs of Moher.

Walking to the very end – a beautiful stone tower from the Napoleonic Wars named Hag’s Head – takes roughly an hour, not counting the many stops you’re inevitably going to make for pictures. On the opposite side is O’Brien’s Tower, which you can climb for just €2.

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Ireland’s Ancient East: Why You Should Go And What You Can’t Miss https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/irelands-ancient-east-why-you-should-go-and-what-you-cant-miss/ Wed, 22 Jun 2016 13:26:39 +0000 http://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/?p=19411 Historic Drogheda If you’ve been thinking about travelling to Ireland, surely you’ve considered the classics: the Cliffs of Moher, the...

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Ireland's Ancient EastHistoric Drogheda

If you’ve been thinking about travelling to Ireland, surely you’ve considered the classics: the Cliffs of Moher, the Dingle Peninsula, Blarney Castle, the Aran Islands. Notice how they’re all on the west coast? Yeah—Western Ireland gets all the glory these days.

But what if I told you there’s an equally enticing, similarly photogenic portion of Ireland, wedged between Cork and Northern Ireland, that holds some of the country’s most significant historic sites? Where history goes back 5000 years and where lush meadows are awash with ancient abbeys and stately castles?

Welcome to Ireland’s Ancient East.

What Is Ireland’s Ancient East?

Ireland’s Ancient East encompasses some of the most sacred and mystical scenes in the country, with tombs older than the great pyramids of Gizeh and monasteries that enduringly altered Irish annals. The region’s history starts 5000 years ago along the very banks of the mighty River Boyne and continues up to this day, where visitors such as myself are encouraged to immerse themselves in the Boyne’s lush landscapes, awe-inspiring by stories told by captivating storytellers, and mindbogglingly old monuments.

To say I had a blast would be an understatement.

Beaulieu House and Gardens

Welcome to the stately Beaulieu House, one of the first unfortified houses in Ireland. Cara Konig is the eleventh generation of the Titchburn family to own and run this manor—curiously passed from through the female lineage rather than the male, as men were frequently called to the battlefields. Originally built by Sir Henry Titchburn in the 1660s, the Beaulieu House miraculously survived the War of Irish independence in the 1920s, probably because the house was their permanent residence and, as such, employed several local residents; most of the other Anglo-Irish noble houses in the area were burnt down without so much as a second thought.

Whatever you do at Beaulieu House, make sure to ask Cara for a guided tour of the estate, including the gardens. Her warm and welcoming disposition will make any time spent at Beaulieu House undoubtedly worthwhile.

Slane Castle

Ireland's Ancient EastIreland's Ancient East

I was lucky enough to visit the stately Slane Castle, home of the Conyngham family since the 18th century set in the heart of a 1,500-acre estate in the heart of the Boyne Valley. It is said that the hill on which the castle is built is precisely where Saint Patrick lit his paschal fire, after which he was summoned by the High King to the nearby Hill of Tara, which subsequently resulted in Ireland being converted to Christianity. How’s that for historical significance in Ireland’s Ancient East?

Aside from its connection to the infamous Battle of the Boyne, the castle’s current claim to fame is the home the wonderful natural amphitheatre formed by the sloping lawns that surround the property and which welcome 85,000 music lovers every summer for rock concerts, with no-name headliners that you most likely haven’t heard of: U2, Madonna, Rolling Stones, and other promising up-and-comers.

Melifont Abbey

Ireland's Ancient EastIreland's Ancient East

As one of the wealthiest and most influential monastic houses in medieval Ireland, Old Mellifont Abbey is definitely a must-do in Ireland’s Ancient East. It is, in fact, the country’s oldest Cistercian Abbey (dating back to 1142); its construction marked the beginning of Norman stone architecture across Ireland, which is nowadays quite common.

At the height of its popularity, Mellifont Abbey housed over 400 monks and remained rather prosperous until its demise during the Kingdom of Ireland’s Nine Years’ War, whenKing Henry VIII ordered the subsequent reformation of the Church of Ireland; so prosperous, in fact, that monks had stones imported from England and mainland Europe for some of the buildings, a choice that went against every monastic value of simplicity and anti-materialism. This exuberance appalled and offended local populations, and it is without a hint of shame that they stripped stones from the abbey ruins to build houses in the vicinity.

Make sure to ask for a guided tour of the ruins: John is an everflowing fountain of information and really knows how to bring pieces of Irish history together to create a cohesive, clear narrative.

Monasterboice

Ireland's Ancient East

Behold the finest Celtic cross in Ireland! Dating back from the 9th century, Muireadach’s Cross is regarded as a symbol of Irish heritage and depicts carvings from various scenes of both the Old and the New Testaments. The free-standing, 5.5-metres high cross (look at how tiny I am next to it!) is located on an early Christian settlement from the 5th century founded by Saint Buithe; in fact, the name Monasterboice is the anglicisation of Celtic Irish Mainistir Bhuithe, meaning “monastery of Buithe”.

Loughcrew CairnsIreland's Ancient East
Ireland's Ancient East

This was my favourite part of the Ireland’s Ancient East trip. I was completely speechless from start to end—partly because I was out of breath from the hike, let’s be honest here—and if you know me, you’re well aware that I am barely ever at a loss for words.

Standing in that megalithic burial chambers, admiring the precise carvings, and learning that the cairns’ black stones, which are carved with various solar symbols and petroglyphs, are only ever fully illuminated on the spring and autumnal equinoxes when the sun beams directly onto them at sunrise—trust me, you’d be speechless, too.

Loughcrew Cairns dates back from 3200 BC, making it technically older than the freakin’ pyramid (yeah, let that sink in for a bit); as such, is one of the most significant prehistoric cemeteries in Europe. The site consists of 30 passage cruciform-shaped tombs and free-standing megalith stones and offers sprawling views of the valley below.

Hill of Tara

Ireland's Ancient EastImage courtesy of Failte Ireland – a different perspective on the Hill of Tara!

Once the seat of Árd Rí na hÉireann (High King of Ireland), the Hill of Tara is, to most experts, the absolute most important archaeological site in the country. The 500-feet high dwelling has strong connections to Irish mythology; for example, this is where over 142 kings are said to have held feasts and been acknowledged by Earth Mother Goddess Maeve, where gods entered the realm of eternal joy, and where Saint Patrick confronted pagans and converted them to the early version of the Irish Catholic Church.

The Hill of Tara also boasts burial chambers dating back to the Iron Age, which are enclosed by ditches and ring forts (best seen on the aerial photo above).

Trim Castle

Ireland's Ancient East Ireland's Ancient EastIreland's Ancient EastWelcome to the largest Anglo-Norman castle in Ireland! The castle was formerly used as a centre of Norman administration for the Lordship of Meath, hemmed by magnate Hugh de Lacy. The castle grounds cover over 30,000 square metres; but what really made it an acclaimed stronghold is the 20-sided, three-storied, two-metres thick central keep that can still be visited today. Three of the original four towers still flank its corners.

If the castle looks familiar, rest assured, you are not daydreaming: it was heavily featured in Mel Gibsons’ 1995 Braveheart.

This post was brought to you as a result of the #IrelandsAncientEast blog trip, created and managed by iambassador in partnership with Tourism Ireland. To Europe And Beyond maintains full editorial control of the content published on this site.

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Visiting the Aran Islands – the cradle of Irish culture https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/a-daytrip-at-the-aran-islands/ Wed, 27 Jan 2016 21:20:08 +0000 http://www.eurotriptips.com/?p=7067 Think of a remote island. Isolated. Rugged. Untouched. Got it? Now, make that even more remote. THAT’s the Aran Islands....

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Think of a remote island. Isolated. Rugged. Untouched. Got it? Now, make that even more remote. THAT’s the Aran Islands. Located a few miles west of Galway in Western Ireland, this small group of three limestone islands has seemingly stood still against the current throughout the centuries, and by looking at it you’d could be fooled into thinking it’s actually a movie set depicting 1800s rural Ireland.

But on the contrary; the Aran Islands are very much real and even though you’d be hard-pressed to find mobile reception it’s still a place I highly recommend to those exploring the famous Wild Atlantic Way.

I spent a half day there as part of my All Ireland Rocker tour, and I’m so happy I got to see this special part of Ireland.

About the Aran Islands

Aran Islands 1

Perhaps because of their isolation and their profound ties to ancient traditions, the islands retain an extremely strong sense of Irish identity – in fact, the majority of locals, although fluent in English, speak Gaelic among themselves. Take a few minutes to converse with them and it might just end up being the highlight of your trip; Islanders are notoriously entertaining storytellers (and, for some reason, I suspect their stories’ cadence grows in inverse proportions to the amount of Guinness left in their pint).

As you expect them to be. This is Ireland, after all.

If I’m honest, there’s actually very little to do on the island; it’s definitely not a “bring your bucket list to tick off as you go” kind of place. This is the kind of place where you close your eyes to breathe in the fresh Atlantic air and hear lullaby of the waves crashing against the limestone.

It’s a place where you visit Bronze age and UNESCO-registered stone forts like Dun Aengus, where you shop for handcrafted Aran sweaters (the iconic Irish fisherman sweaters) at the Kilmurvey Craft Village, where you walk amongst celtic ruins at Na Seacht dTeampaill, and where you visit Teampall Bhean’in, alledgedly the smallest church in Ireland. I can definitely see the appeal in that.

How to plan a day trip to the island

You can get to the Inis Mór, the main island, by ferry from Ros a’ Mhíl, 23 miles west of Galway. Allow a solid hour and a half to get to the port and check in. Ferries leave Ros a’ Mhí every morning at 10:30 am and get back at 5 pm, with journey time being roughly 2 hours. and Be aware, however, that schedules are subject to change due to inclement weather conditions. A return trip costs €25.00. It is advisable to book online well in advance. Same goes for getting to Inis Méain and Inis Oírr: ferries leave Ros a’ Mhí every morning at 10:30 am and get back at 4:30 pm.

You can also get to the Aran Islands from the Cliffs of Moher with Doolin Ferries in the village of Doolin. A return trip costs $37. Note that it is possible to combine this trip with a Cliffs of Moher cruise. It’s also the only operator to offer inter-island transportation, if you’re planning on visiting more than one island.

Inis Mór is the most popular island. This is where you’ll see the big-ticket attractions pertaining to Celtic mythology and prehistorical times. Inis Méain is the least visited, but it boasts the best unobstructed views of the Cliffs of Moher and unique scuba diving opportunities. Lastly, Inis Oír is famous for its sandy beaches and Caribbean-like turquoise waters; it retains an strong “Irish village” feel  thanks to a striking lighthouse, a small but lively post, and a popular shipwreck.

The best way to get around the islands is by bike or on foot, as they are quite small.

Where to sleep on Inis Mór



Booking.com

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Northern Ireland’s Troubles Murals – In Photos https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/the-troubles-murals-photo/ Fri, 14 Sep 2012 17:03:42 +0000 http://www.eurotriptips.com/?p=7358 It’s hard to believe that it was only a few years ago. And perhaps even harder to believe that despite...

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It’s hard to believe that it was only a few years ago. And perhaps even harder to believe that despite the time that passed, and the efforts made, the issue isn’t entirely settled.

In terms of Irish history, the so-called “Troubles” are a major chapter, and is still very true in Northern Ireland, especially in Derry and Belfast. Two cities where history took tragic a turn of event just a few decades ago, killing several and permanently severing two groups:

The Queen-lovers, pro-Britain protestant Loyalists.
The Queen-haters, pro-Ireland catholic Nationalists.

What surprised me the most is that despite the almost 20 years that passed since the last uprisings, both cities are still divided. Loyalists on one side, nationalists on the other. They barely ever mix together, except in the downtown area during working hours, which is considered neutral and immune to attacks from either parties. In 2012.

The Derry murals

Derry’s murals are a bit more touristy than the others, perhaps because of their location, and the extremely iconic “You are now entering Free Derry“.

A mural dedicated to the violent 1968 March of the Civil Rights, that campained against discrimination in housing and the shortage of social housing in Derry, and later erupted into the infamous Battle of the Bogside - a three day riot between residents and police.
A mural dedicated to the violent 1968 March of the Civil Rights, that campaigned against discrimination in housing and the shortage of social housing in Derry, and later erupted into the infamous Battle of the Bogside – a three-day riot between residents and police.

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Free Derry was a self-declared autonomous nationalist area and ruled by the IRA between 1969 and 1972 when thousands of British troops moved in with armoured cars and bulldozers.

Bernadette Devlin actively engaged in the Nationalist movement in the Battle of the Bogside. At age 21, she became the youngest MP to be elected.

The Death of Innocence, depicting Annette McGavigan, a schoolgirl killed by a British soldier in 1971, shortly before Bloody Sunday.
The Death of Innocence, depicting Annette McGavigan, a schoolgirl killed by a British soldier in 1971, shortly before Bloody Sunday.

 

But the guide explained what each mural meant, and what’s the history behind each of them – which is extremely important if you ask me, just so the murals don’t become yet another bucket list item that people simply tick off without taking the time to actually understand, or at least, try to, the situation both cities were in.

Understand the hurt, the pain, the wrath, the need to be set free, and also, the need to be included.

The Belfast murals

While very touristy, there are black cabs tour that will take you to different murals, which is the best option really, because they are quite spread out. And you get to hear the stories straight from the horses’ mouth, from someone who actually lived through The Troubles and wonder if that parson is a nationalist or loyalist.

"Nothing about us, without us, is for us..."
“Nothing about us, without us, is for us…”

The most famous Loyalist mural in Belfast, and also the creepiest. The shooter is always pointing right at you, regardless of where you physically stand.
The most famous Loyalist mural in Belfast, and also the creepiest. The shooter is always pointing right at you, regardless of where you physically stand.

A loyalist mural depicting Cell Block H of the Maze Prison, which was used to house paramilitary prisoners at the time.
A loyalist mural depicting Cell Block H of the Maze Prison, which was used to house paramilitary prisoners at the time.

A mural depicting Martin Luther and the Protestant reform.
A mural depicting Martin Luther and the Protestant reform.

The Peace Walls

In both Belfast and Derry, there is still a steel wall that splits the city in half and very secure gates whose door close tightly after nightfall. Every night. In 2012. The walls were only meant to be a temporary measure to calm the riots in the 1960s, but due to their highly effective results, they have grown bigger, longer and higher throughout the years, with very little likelihood to be taken down in the foreseeable future.

The worst part? The houses on either side of the euphemistically called “Peace Walls” are protected by cages against the occasional missile, and have bulletproof windows. Same thing for the Nationalist remembrance garden nearby. Peace walls, you say?

Again. We’re in 2012. A relatively peaceful era, at least in the Western part of the globe.

And while I don’t judge the reasons nor the situation itself, it astonishes me to see such behaviors in this day and age. As a fundamentally liberal and pacifist person, wars go beyond my understanding, my rationalization, whatever the reasons. It truly has me at a loss for words. And if you know me at all, you know that doesn’t happen very often.

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The city may have donated parts of the wall to local artists and made it a true urban art gem, but its meaning nonetheless speaks louder than its state, despite how pretty and full of hope it is. Perhaps, one day, we can all live together, minding our own business instead of fussing over our neighbor’s, choosing freedom over territory or religion.

But maybe I’m also slightly delusional.

[disclaim]Disclaimer: I was a guest of Shamrocker Adventures on this trip. As always, all expressions are my own.[/disclaim]

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Mingling With Giants At The Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/the-giants-causeway-northern-ireland/ Mon, 10 Sep 2012 17:24:12 +0000 http://www.eurotriptips.com/?p=7294 The Giant’s Causeway was something I had always seen on desktop wallpapers, or in one of the BBC famous travel...

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The Giant’s Causeway was something I had always seen on desktop wallpapers, or in one of the BBC famous travel videos.

I never thought I would actually get to see it for myself one day. But I did!

The 6th day of my trip in Ireland with Shamrocker Tours was all about the dramatic coastline of Northern Ireland, making it one of the week’s highlights, for two reasons: the incredible scenery, of course, but also because the area is explained by yet another hilarious Irish tale.

giant's causeway
giant's causeway
giant's causeway

Apparently the Irish are quite the smart ones.

Legend has it that the Causeway was shaped by Benandonner, a Scottish giant, who had challenged the Irish giant and local celebrity Finn MacCool. Finn wasn’t as big and strong as Benandonner, so instead of fighting a doomed battle, he decided to trick the Scottish giant. He disguised himself as a baby and said he was actually Finn’s son. Benandonner got to thinking – if the baby is so big already, how enormous is FinnMacCool? The thought alone scared the hell out of him and fled to Scotland in terror, effectively destroying the actual causeway that stood there at the time, and creating the one we see today.

How’s that for outsmarting someone?

Scientists, on the other hand, claim that it was intense volcanic activity some odd 50 million years ago that shaped this unique landscape.

But all the Irish will tell you that it’s bullshit. There are no volcanoes in Ireland – but of course, there are giants!

The Giant’s Causeway is actually the most popular tourist spot in all of Northern Ireland, and was named the fourth greatest Natural Wonder in the United Kingdom. Not bad! Even though the most interesting thing about the Causeway is definitely the legend and the scenery, trivia enthusiasts will enjoy learning that while most of the columns are hexagonal, some of them have only 3 or 4 sides, and some other have up to 8! Also, did you know that some columns are as high as 12 meters high, and 28 meters thick?!

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Getting The Gift Of The Gab at Blarney Castle https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/getting-the-gift-of-the-gab-at-blarney-castle/ Mon, 03 Sep 2012 23:37:36 +0000 http://www.eurotriptips.com/?p=7312 I was always intrigued by the famous, mysterious stone of eloquence at Blarney Castle. Not that I need an additional...

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I was always intrigued by the famous, mysterious stone of eloquence at Blarney Castle. Not that I need an additional dose of prolific oration, mind you.

Some would say I talk enough as it is. I think people secretly wish I would just shut the hell up every once in a while. I even asked my dad the other day, at the end of a particularly long rant.

Was I always so voluble?

And without absolutely no hesitation whatsoever, he answered. Always. Al-ways. I would have been insulted by his promptness had I not known the answer to be true. I like talking, alright? Sue me!

blarney castle blarney castle

I was nonetheless very curious about the stone, even more so than I was about the rest of Ireland. Also, funny story. Someone on the bus asked if the stone was cleaned, or at least sanitized, for time to time. Our guide seemed to pick her brain about that, trying to find a date. She even asked the driver to chime in.

“Yes, the stone was actually cleaned quite recently. I’m guessing it’s only been about, I don’t know, 600 years ago, perhaps?” At least germs are one of the few things I am not afraid of – I’m just going to focus on that, instead of the fact that I was just about to bend over backwards to kiss a dirty stone.

Blarney Castle And The Gift Of The Gab

Climbing up the castle is pretty easy, although I’m guessing it’s a rough experience for the knees of people over 6 foot tall – the steps are extremely steep and very high. That made the climb up pretty fun for the guys in our group! Once you do get to the top, you are rewarded with fine views of the Blarney estate, which are, of course, very green. It’s Ireland, after all.

blarney castle blarney castle

The big moment was just around the corner. I watched people do it, and it looked kind of fun. I held on to that thought until it was my turn to step forward and have the attendant help me lie down. But there was a slight problem: my brain would not rationalise that it was a safe procedure and therefore, neither would my body. And looking at it now, I can’t blame him – it does go against nature to bend over backwards to kiss a dirty stone some 90 feet in the air while some guy holds your waist. Right!? But the attendant, a courteous Irishmen, would have none of my freaking out and swiftly slid my face towards the stone so that I would be over with it.

So I kissed the stone that so many before me kissed and got back on my wobbly legs, hoping that the blood would return to my upper body eventually.

“The stone this is, whoever kissed,

He never misses to grow eloquent

Tis he may clamber to a lady’s chamber,

Or be a member of Parliament”

blarney castle blarney castle blarney castle

It was quite the experience, kissing the stone of eloquence. While I may not be making my way to neither a lady’s chamber nor the Parliament, I’m pretty glad I threw my fear of heights in the gutter and did it anyway, despite how unnatural it felt to actually lie there. And perhaps this seemingly endless post will be a testament of just how effective the stone really is…

[disclaim]Disclaimer: I was a guest of Shamrocker Tours on this trip. As always, all opinions are my own.[/disclaim]

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The Rugged Dingle Peninsula – In Photos https://www.toeuropeandbeyond.com/dingle-peninsula-photos/ Wed, 29 Aug 2012 17:43:28 +0000 http://www.eurotriptips.com/?p=6909 Roadtripping in Ireland was a life-long dream. For some reason (perhaps because half my family has bright ginger hair, perhaps...

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Roadtripping in Ireland was a life-long dream. For some reason (perhaps because half my family has bright ginger hair, perhaps because we are quite the elbow-benders), I was always drawn to the Emerald Island, and what better way to discover it than with a car, I thought.

Well there happens to be a better way. By tour bus. There is quite nothing like being driven around this beautiful part of the world by an always knowledgeable and more often than not cheeky local, who is more than happy to share the many myths and legends of the area.

The drive between Killarney and Galway – otherwise known as the Dingle Peninsula – is indeed quite spectacular. Think raw, untouched nature,  constantly fighting against the wild Atlantic Ocean to form this unique, dramatic coastline. I’d never seen anything like it before, and I think it’s fair to say that it’s amongst the most beautiful roadtrips of the world.

So without further ado, here are my best photos of the Dingle Peninsula.

dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula dingle peninsula

To be honest, the day started out pretty bad. After being on the road for about two hours, and having already a few dozen photos on my camera, I realized that I had been shooting in ISO 6400. In broad daylight. That’s very bad news for a travel blogger. So a huge part of my photos from that day are extremely grainy, and flatly colored. Hur-fucking-ray! At least I fixed this before it was too late…

Coumeennole Beach! This was probably the coldest water I’ve put my feet in. But you know what? It felt amazing nonetheless. Slightly invigorating for the body (as in, my feet had a weird blueish hue and my heart was beating fast), but incredibly powerful for the soul – I’ve ever so rarely dipped my toes in the sea that each time is precious to me.

Even the freezing ones.

And then we stopped in Dingle for lunch. What a lovely village! I loved how colorful it was, and so full of life for such a small place. The locals were amongst the friendliest I’ve met in Ireland.

But perhaps my overall appreciation is clouded by my weak point for ice cream. I have very little willpower when it comes to ice cream.

This is Dunmore Head, one of the most striking sights of the Dingle Peninsula. It’s on top of a small mountain, silent and peaceful. It’s also the westernmost point of Ireland.

Or, in other words, the closest I’ll be to Canada while physically standing in Ireland.

Disclaimer: I was a guest of Shamrocker Tours on this trip. As always, all opinions are my own.

Have you been to the Dingle Peninsula? Or the Western coast of Ireland? What was your favorite stop?

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